Tag Archive | plants that flower in winter

Poinsettias: Merry and Bright!

Poinsettias in December

Poinsettias have long been associated with Christmas celebrations and are the most popular indoor flowering plants. They appear as early as mid-November in every garden center, grocery store, florist, Christmas craft show, and hardware store across the country.

Recently, I bought one called ‘Ruby Frost’ (bred by Syngenta). It’s a short plant that fits perfectly under a table lamp. I prefer some of the novelty colors, such as the very pale, creamy peach Premium ‘Apricot’, but I didn’t see it this year. ‘Visions of Grandeur’ (Ecke) is another favorite, with soft pale pink bracts. It is stunning when grown to a large size.

Over 100 varieties are available, with new ones advertising improved features, such as darker leaves and longer-lasting bracts. The colorful parts, sometimes called flowers, are actually modified leaves called bracts. True flowers are the small yellow and red parts in the center of the youngest bracts. Poinsettias are also being bred for resistance to necrotic leaf margins, a physiological condition where the edges of bracts or leaves turn brown due to calcium deficiency.

History of Poinsettias

As you can see from the photograph below, wild poinsettias look quite different from the ones we grow today in greenhouses. The plant is native to tropical deciduous forests of Mexico, where they grow from 2′ to 12′ tall.

Seven hundred years ago, the Aztecs called the plant Cuetlaxochitl, and used the red bracts for dye. The white latex had antipyretic properties, and the Aztecs used it for treating fever (but don’t try this at home). King Netzahualcoyotl considered the poinsettia a symbol of purity, as did the Aztec King Montezuma in the 1500’s.

Wild poinsettia.

The first U.S. ambassador to Mexico (1825-1829), Joel Roberts Poinsett, introduced the plant to the United States in 1825 after seeing them in the area now known as Taxco. Poinsett, a physician and botanist, shipped specimens to his greenhouse in Greenville (or Charleston, depending on source), South Carolina. He also sent plants to Philadelphia botanist John Bartram, who, in turn, gave plants to Robert Bruist, a nurseryman who named them Euphorbia pulcherrima Willd.

Poinsettia flowers, the cyathia.

More than 700 species belong to the Euphorbia genus, a member of the Euphorbiaceae, or spurge, family, and have in common the characteristic white sticky latex sap. A Euphorbia flower generally comprises a single female flower, without sepals, surrounded by male flowers in a cyathium (plural: cyathia). The small flowers are located in the center of the colorful bracts, which attract the attention of pollinators.

Poinsettias are not poisonous, as was previously thought. Children and family pets chewing on the leaves or stems find out fast that better things await them on, or under, the dinner table. Those rare individuals who are allergic to the sap and develop a rash should immediately seek medical attention.

The Christmas Connection

The origin of poinsettias as a Christmas tradition began in the 1500’s, in Mexico, with a poor young girl named either Pepita or Maria. Because she was unable to provide a gift to celebrate Jesus’ birthday, she was inspired by an angel to gather weeds into a bouquet and to place them by the church altar. Red blossoms sprouted from the weeds, the story goes, which turned into poinsettias.

By the 1600’s, Franciscan priests in Mexico included them in Christmas celebrations. Around the same time, the writings of a botanist named Juan Balme began to appear, describing the poinsettia.

Modern Culture of Poinsettias

In 1923, Mrs. Enteman of Jersey City, New Jersey, discovered the first oak-leaved seedling and named it, appropriately, ‘Oak Leaf’. This was the first selection suitable for pot culture. Up until the 1960’s, all selections and sports are credited with having ‘Oak Leaf’ heritage.

Poinsettias were first grown as cut flowers (‘True Red’, ‘Early Red’), and were raised in outdoor fields before moving into greenhouses in the 1960’s. Paul Ecke, a California nurseryman, began breeding, in the 1920’s, most of the varieties grown today. His company discovered a way to breed plants that branched freely. So, for decades, this secret method allowed Ecke to remain the dominant grower…until the secret was revealed by a student, this story goes. Good branching structure and shorter stems culminated in their ‘Eckespoint Freedom’, in 1992.

Pennsylvania State University, the University of Maryland, and several commercial breeding programs proliferated in the 1950’s. Dr. Robert N. Stewart, of the Univ. of Maryland’s Agricultural Research Center in Beltsville MD, bred poinsettias with stiff stems, large bracts, and new colors. ‘Paul Mikkelsen’, named in 1963, was the first long-lasting poinsettia crop. ‘Annette Hegga Red’, with multi-bracted stems from pinching, and other sports were imported from Norway in 1964.

Before these new improvements came on the gardening scene, poinsettias grew long stems and were trained to look like a paperclip—“tromboning”, it was called.

Currently, California leads the nation (total: 34 million plants) in the number of poinsettias grown. The USDA reports that, in 2013, California grew 6 million plants. North Carolina came in second, with 4.4 million pots grown. Then Texas with 3.7 million pots, and Florida and Ohio, each with about 3 million pots. Red is the most popular color, claiming ¾ of all U.S. sales, followed by white, and then pink.

Poinsettias accounted for 23% of all U.S. indoor flowering potted plant sales in 2013. They contributed $144 million of the $618 million in this category.

Varieties

: ‘Princettia’ poinsettia.

: Red poinsettia.

Looking for a basic red poinsettia is no longer a simple task. There are cherry reds and scarlet reds, deep velvety reds and burgundies. Some bloom early and some bloom later, and can last in color for months! There are plants with dark green foliage or a lighter shade of green. And there’s ‘Winter Rose’ (Ecke) with bracts that are curled, resembling a rosette. ‘Carousel’ (Ecke) adds a bit of a frill, with its wavy-edged bracts. ‘Mirage’ and ‘Lyra’ (both from Syngenta) were introduced in 2017. Every year or two, new introductions come to the marketplace.

Solid pinks, in shades from very pale to vibrant, and from clear pink to peach to salmon, broaden the palette. And, of course, there’s white, although most white poinsettias are creamy yellow and mature somewhat white, as in ‘Freedom White’ and the recent ‘Merry White’ (Selecta). The newer ‘Princettia’ series does have a pure white variety, and also several pink shades. These colors offer tones that fit better, stylistically, in many homes.

: Orange poinsettia.

: A painted poinsettia.

If bright rich orange is your color, there’s a poinsettia for you! ‘Lemon Drop’ and ‘Gold Rush’ bring even more color selections. But the traditional reds, such as the ‘Freedom’, ‘Prestige’, ‘Premier’, and ‘Viking’ series are still the favorites and readily available.

For those who dare, spray paints and glitter can be applied. White poinsettias suddenly, magically, become blue or purple! Very striking, unnatural some would say, and not for the faint of heart!

Variegated Bracts and Foliage

A poinsettia with variegated bracts.

Variegated leaves, with creamy yellow margins, add another dimension, as in ‘Holly Point’. The newer ‘Tapestry’ (Ecke; photo, end of this section) is more vigorous than ‘Holly Point’ and more resistant to necrotic leaf margins. Foliage is gray-green in the center, and bracts are cherry red.

‘Mars Marble’ has cream margins with soft pink in the center of the bracts. ‘Christmas Angel Marbella’ (Selecta) also has creamy margins around salmon-pink centers.

For something a little different, there are series with spotted and splotched bracts. ‘Glitter’ (Ecke), ‘Shimmer Surprise’, ‘Tri-Color’, and ‘Jingle Bells’ look as if they’ve been splattered by white or pink paint. Some cultivars have yellow spots!

‘Ice Punch’ has red bracts with a blaze of pinkish white in the center. ‘Ruby Frost’ offers marbling in shades of pink, white, and red. (Note: the plant I purchased was labeled ‘Ruby Frost’, but it differs in appearance from photos in NC State Poinsettia Trials.)

: Varieties with spotted bracts have varying amounts of cream.

: ‘Ruby Frost’?

‘Strawberries and Cream’ (photo, below) is a diminutive variety, often grown in a 4 1/2″ pot. It has oak-leaved bracts that are cream on the margin and deep salmon pink in the center. Because of its size, it fits nicely in a basket with small-leaved English ivy, a Norfolk Island pine, and a young fern. Cover the pots with Spanish moss, add a bow, and you’re all set!

To hide bare stems near the bottom of the plant, simply add sprigs of evergreens and pine cones. Or use them in baskets, lined with plastic to prevent leakage, with other plants surrounding the bare stems. Keep them in the pots and move the plants around until you arrive at a pleasing arrangement.

: ‘Tapestry’, with variegated foliage.

: ‘Apricot’ and ‘Strawberries and Cream’.

Headings

Page 1: Poinsettias in December, History of Poinsettias, The Christmas Connection, Modern Culture of Poinsettias, Varieties, and Variegated Bracts and Foliage

Page 2: How To Care For Poinsettias (Growing Conditions), Outdoors For the Summer, And Back Indoors Again, and National Poinsettia Day

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Pages: 1 2

Paperwhite Narcissus: Fragrant And Easy To Grow

Dec2

paperwhite narcissus 'Winter Sun', white flowers, yellow cup

‘Winter Sun’ paperwhite daffodil.

The Paperwhite Narcissus

Among the easiest plants to grow for fragrant blooms in winter is the paperwhite narcissus, Narcissus papyraceus. Success is practically guaranteed, since the flowers are already inside the bulbs when you buy them. All they need to sprout is light and moisture. Yes—it’s that easy!

Bulbs are available in autumn, alongside their hardier daffodil cousins, and sometimes into winter. Narcissus papyraceus is the name used by the Royal Horticultural Society. It lists Narcissus papyraceus subsp. tazetta as a synonym.

Purchase the bulbs by the end of November if you want blooms for Christmas. But, if time is running short, garden centers and florists will have potted paperwhite narcissus already sprouting or in flower right up to Christmas and often into the New Year.

Look for large, healthy bulbs that feel solid when you lightly squeeze them. Bulbs generally will bloom 3 to 4 weeks after planting them; some require a week or two more. Keep them cool—in the 50’s F—until they’re planted.

How To Plant Paperwhite Narcissus Indoors

With Roots In Water

Many gardeners prefer the traditional method of growing bulbs on a bed of decorative gravel or pebbles. Simply place a layer of pebbles in a shallow non-draining ceramic bowl or a glass container. Maintain the water level just below the bottom of the bulbs, which will sense the humidity and begin to grow roots. It won’t be long before growth emerges.

If you don’t see roots within a few days, add water until it touches the bottom of the bulbs. Once roots are visible, maintain the water level right below the bulbs. When the bulbs begin absorbing water, remember to refill the container to keep the roots wet. Avoid submerging bulbs in the water, which can cause rot.

Another method of forcing paperwhite narcissus is to rest a bulb in the top of a “bulb-forcing vase”, keeping water just under the bottom of the bulb. These vases come in a few sizes, so look for the small one made for daffodils. Amaryllis bulbs are sometimes grown this way in a larger vase.

With Roots In Soil

Paperwhite bulbs on the soil surface.

I prefer forcing bulbs in potting soil. Place paperwhite narcissus bulbs for forcing close together, unlike bulbs planted in the garden. Several bulbs will fit in a 6″ or 7″ pot.

Put some potting soil in the bottom third of the pot and nestle in the bulbs. Then, add some soil between the bulbs, and see if you can layer in a few more. It’s okay if the bulbs’ noses protrude above the soil. Other gardeners might place the bulbs fully exposed on top of the soil. Now water the pot.

The root systems of paperwhite narcissus bulbs grow very vigorously. In fact, strong young roots often push the bulbs higher in the medium. Gently push them back down; eventually the roots will more securely grab the soil.

One or two bulbs in a small decorative pot also makes a lovely presentation. When selling plants at the Christmas shows, I offered sprouted single paperwhites in 3″ aged clay pots. The bulb was planted high with a collar of fluffy green sheet moss tucked in the soil around the inside rim of the pot. I added a twig and holiday ribbon or a few pieces of raffia around the leaves. Add a clay saucer…very cute. Perfect for a windowsill that’s too cold for other houseplants.

I also planted paperwhites in ceramic bowls, 6″ and 7″ pots, and in squares of burlap, with moss and a bow, surrounding the pots and saucers. Customers enjoyed choosing among the different presentations to fit their needs.

Larger Bulbs

When I sold potted paperwhites in the fall and early winter, I purchased the largest bulbs available from suppliers. This ensured the greatest number of flowers, 2 or 3 multi-flowering stems per bulb. They were worth the additional cost.

Will Paperwhite Narcissus Come Back Next Year?

Forced bulbs have been weakened by the process and require an extra year or two in the garden, gathering strength before they’ll bloom again. Paperwhite narcissus bulbs for forcing are planted close together, but space them about 6″ apart in the garden.

In colder climates throughout the U.S., most varieties are not winter hardy. Gardeners in Zones 8-11, however, can plant them outdoors, where they usually return every spring. At the end of this article, I include a list of varieties and their USDA hardiness zones.

If you plan to set them into the garden after enjoying the forced blooms, keep the plants moist, give them direct sunlight, and do not cut off the foliage. It’s the same for paperwhites as it is for spring-flowering bulbs: leaves photosynthesize, storing nourishment in the bulbs. The more carbohydrates produced, the more flowers you’ll see in the future. For all bulbs, therefore, wait until the foliage has yellowed before removing it.

If your plans include saving the bulbs for the garden, force your paperwhites in potting soil. But don’t expect much of a floral show in the next flowering cycle. Bulbs growing in pots have depleted all the stored energy and require sunshine, moisture, nutrients, and time to gather enough strength to flower again.

As you can see from the list of varieties, several are hardy in colder climates. Left in the garden, they will bloom according to seasonal cues. Like other daffodils, roots grow in autumn, followed by the blooms in late winter to spring.

Temperature

Average indoor temperatures encourage rapid sprouting. Bright green leaves emerge before the tightly budded flowers. Temperature is one factor that determines how quickly the plants grow. Bulbs planted in late November to early December will probably flower for Christmas if they’re given temperatures in the high 60’s to 70°F. Rates of growth can vary, though, depending on the cultivar.

Let’s say you planted your bulbs on Thanksgiving Day, but now prefer to delay the bloom as long as possible. This is where lowering the temperature can help. Plants in full bloom or showing flower buds will slow down their development if they are kept very cool. And I mean “back porch” cool!

Don’t let them freeze. Expose plants to temperatures in the 40’s to just about stop them in their tracks. They probably would survive close to freezing temperatures, but the leaves might flop over. Cool temperatures keep the plants shorter overall. If the leaves are falling over, gather them together and secure with ribbon or raffia to a stake.

Watch the weather forecast to see if the plants can be kept outdoors overnight. But don’t forget to water them. Incidentally, deer and rodents won’t eat your paperwhite narcissus.

Chill!

When you bring the plants in for the night, put them in a very cool location. On the floor near a chilly patio door or in a cold window should suffice. Or in the garage if it’s cool but not freezing. Avoid placing them where they’ll feel the warm dry air from the heater. Kept very cool, the flowers last longer and growth will slow down.

Sure, bring them in for a few hours while your friends are over. (Not everyone likes the fragrance, though, so you might ask your guests.) Some varieties are less fragrant and are noted as such in the list of varieties, below.

Of course, there is the option of just letting them grow without fussing over them. If plants are available at the garden center, simply replace the old with the new. But if you prefer to grow them yourself, potting up a few bulbs every 7 to 10 days will give you a succession of blooms.

Planters Outdoors

If the weather remains chilly but not freezing, you can incorporate pre-started pots of paperwhites into patio planter combinations. Add evergreens, berried boughs, pansies or violas, and seasonal embellishments. I did this a few times, and, given favorable weather conditions, the flowers lasted for weeks.

Light and Water for Paperwhite Narcissus

Another factor that determines how well the plants grow is light. Direct sunlight will keep them shorter, but along with that come higher temperatures. So, try to find a spot that’s cool and sunny, like a chilly window.

Plants grow weaker in low light levels, and flowers—if they open—will be of lower quality.

Keep the plants moist at all times, using cool tap water. A vigorous root system dries the pot quickly, so check the plants every day. Dry soil will damage the flower buds.

Please Pass the Vodka

No, not for me. It’s for the paperwhites! In 2005, Dr. William Miller and student Erin Finan at the Cornell University Department of Horticulture studied the effects of alcohol on paperwhite narcissus.

First, they gave clear water to the bulbs until they began rooting out. After that, they found that plants were about one-third shorter when bulbs received a 4-6% solution of alcohol. So, a 1:7 to 1:9 solution (alcohol:water) will keep the plants shorter. (Divide “proof” by 2 to get alcohol content. For example, 80 proof is 40% alcohol. 40 ÷ 5% target = 8. Subtract 1. This results in a ratio of 1:7.)

Some online sources recommend a more concentrated alcohol content (1:5), but I wonder if that would interfere with water uptake.

This works on paperwhites grown in water or in soil.

Fact of Life: Floppy Paperwhite Narcissus

Even with good growing conditions, the leaves of paperwhites grow tall and eventually fall over. Prepare for this ahead of time, and have some bamboo stakes, twigs from the garden, or a short decorative trellis and some twine, raffia, or ribbon to secure the stems. And maybe a little gin…for the bulbs.

Paperwhites offer a powerful fragrance. Maybe there are better places to display them instead of next to the Christmas turkey. For the same reason most cooks prefer unscented candles on the dinner table, paperwhites can find some other place for the occasion. Perhaps they can keep company with the cyclamen in the chilly foyer.

Cut Flowers

Many paperwhite cultivars are suitable as cut flowers. But water uptake in other types of flowers can be hindered by compounds in the daffodils’ sap.

This also applies to hardy springtime daffodils that emerge in the garden, so keep cut daffodils by themselves for longer-lasting tulips, hyacinths, and others.

Off With the Old

When the scent loses its appeal, trim off the entire flower stem. Don’t discard the plant; there might be another flower stem that will emerge, even if the bud is not immediately visible. Remember to keep the soil moist.

Place finished pots in the garage or a chilly basement, in the sun, and continue to water. Keep them growing if they’re hardy where you live. Gardeners can plant their bloomed-out paperwhites outdoors after the harsh months of winter have passed.

Even though the varieties I grew were not hardy in Maryland, where I used to live, the plants and their soil were discarded under the shrubs or in the borders instead of at the landfill. The organic matter still had value in the garden.

paperwhite narcissus in a decorative pot, planted 1/6/19

‘Winter Sun’ bulbs.

Varieties of Paperwhite Narcissus

Subspecies of N. papyraceus have broad distribution around the world. They’re native to or have naturalized in southeast France, northwest Italy, Sardinia, the Canary Islands, Turkey, Greece, Israel, southeast China, South Korea, Japan, India, and Nepal. They also are found in Australia, New Zealand, Algeria, Morocco, Bermuda, Mexico, South America, and in United States along the south and west coasts.

The term tazetta derives from the Italian word “tazza”, which is a shallow wine cup. These plants used to be called Narcissus tazetta, but recent nomenclature classifies them as Narcissus papyraceus subspecies tazetta. All paperwhites are in the Amaryllidaceae family.

Alphabetically, and all are fragrant:

‘Ariel’: large pure white flowers that face down slightly. Good for forcing, one source says grow only in soil. Zones 8-11.
‘Avalanche’: white with greenish-yellow cup, strong fragrance. Called ‘Seventeen Sisters’ in the 1700’s for its profuse blooms. Heirloom; award winner. Mid-spring, zones 6-9.
‘Canaliculatus’: white with yellow cup, sweetly fragrant, 4 to 7 flowers per stem. Short, to 6″ tall. Heirloom. Mid-spring, zones 6-10.
‘Chinese Sacred Lily’ (N. tazetta chinensis or orientalis): white with golden yellow cup, wonderful fragrance, 5 to 10 small flowers per stem, might be not as free-flowering as others. One source said to give it a little bottom heat (about 70°F) to coax the flowers. Three to five weeks to bloom. To 16″ tall. Brought from China in the 1800’s and used to celebrate Chinese New Year. Zones 8-11.
‘Cragford’: white with vivid orange cup, 4 to 6 flowers per stem. Excellent cut flower (strong stem). Good forcer, 1′ to 2′ tall. Heirloom, award winner. Zones 5-9.
‘Erlicheer’: double white with yellow mixed in, to 16″ tall. Award winner. Zones 6-9.
‘Falconet’: deep yellow with orange-red cup, 3 to 8 flowers per stem, strong fragrance. Excellent cut flower, 1′ to 2′ tall. Award winner. Mid-spring, zones 5-9.
‘Galilee’: all white, 10 to 15 flowers per stem, musky scent. Good for forcing. Zones 8-11.
‘Geranium’: white with yellow-orange cup, very fragrant. Several stems, each with 3 to 6 flowers. Well-drained soil, good in the South. Up to 15″ tall. Award winner. Zones 4-9.
‘Grand Soleil d’Or’: bright yellow with orange cup, 10 to 20 flowers per stem. Delicate fruity fragrance. Good forcer but takes longer to grow. To 18″ tall. Very early spring, zones 8-11.
‘Inbal’: large clusters of white flowers, flat cup. Good for forcing, milder fragrance. Zones 8-11.
‘Jerusalem’: large white flowers, mild sweet fragrance. To 20″ tall. Zones 8-11.
‘Minnow’: pale yellow with yellow cup, fading with age, 2 to 5 flowers per stem. 8″ to 10″ tall, nice in rock gardens. Award winner. Zones 5-9.
‘Nazareth’ (‘Yael’): creamy white, mildly sweet fragrance. To 14″ tall. Zones 8-11.
‘Scilly White’: white with short pale yellow cup, 3 to 20 flowers per stem. Sweet scent, but not as strong as others. To 20″ tall. Late winter/early spring flowers. Zones 8-11.
‘Winter Sun’ (‘Wintersun’): white with buttery-yellow to clear yellow cup. 4 to 5 weeks to bloom, milder fragrance. Zones 8-10, one source said Zones 9-11. (Photo, below).
‘Ziva’: pure white, large cluster. 3 to 4 stems per bulb. Sweet, spicy scent. Zones 8-11. Also, the favorite for forcing.

‘Winter Sun’, one month after potting up.

If you prefer a milder fragrance, start with those indicated as such in the list above. Photographs of several cultivars can be found online.

In the meantime, I hope you’ll enjoy potting up a few of these paperwhite narcissus bulbs. Tuck a pot into a large basket with other winter flowers (Amaryllis, Poinsettia), some English ivy, and ‘Frosty’ fern for a festive arrangement.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holiday Season to all!

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How To Keep Cyclamen In Bloom

Nov26

It’s Time For Cyclamen!

A florist’s cyclamen.

Cyclamen are perfect winter-blooming plants. Miniature varieties don’t take up much space, and they can fit in just about anywhere–a cool windowsill, the kitchen table, or a guest room. The cyclamen found in garden centers in autumn are florist’s cyclamen, which I’ll describe after the section on hardy cyclamen.

Now that we’re well into autumn, temperatures dip below freezing at night. Outdoor gardening activities are less critical, and preparing for the holidays takes priority.

Garden centers are brimful with enticing delights—real trees (fake ones, too) and wreaths and all the trimmings… Strings of miniature Christmas lights (“annuals”, according to some), bird feeders, seed and suet…

And plants, of course. Poinsettias in an ever-widening assortment of cultivars, paperwhite narcissus bulbs in bins or sprouting in pots, stately amaryllis in dozens of colors…and benches of cyclamen in sprightly pinks, reds, bicolors, and pure white.

I’ve always loved miniature cyclamen. Sometimes you can find one with an especially delightful scent. The miniatures, to me, are easier to manage and stay in bloom longer than the larger types. A pink miniature from last Christmas just went out of bloom, yet summoned the energy to form 20 new flower buds.

Now, they won’t bloom forever, but with careful maintenance, miniature cyclamen can bloom for many months.

Cyclamen are truly versatile. They easily fit into combination arrangements with Norfolk Island pine, English ivy, small poinsettias, and houseplants seeking company.

Grow them in rustic clay pots, in modern ceramics, in birch logs, and in baskets. Or clustered on the credenza with candles, amaryllis, and fresh greens. And near the front door, in the chilly foyer, under a desk lamp, with some ornaments, and, yes, more greens.

There are two groups of cyclamen: those that are hardy and can tolerate cold temperatures when planted in the garden (“Hardy Cyclamen”) and those that are grown for indoor culture (“Florist’s Cyclamen”).

Hardy Cyclamen—We Can Take the Cold

There are about two dozen species of cyclamen available to gardeners, all belonging to the Primulaceae family. In addition to Cyclamen, other members in the family include Primula, Lysimachia, Dodecatheon, and about 50 other genera.

The hardy Cyclamen hederifolium.

***Cyclamen* *Hederifolium***

Cyclamen hederifolium is the most commonly found hardy cyclamen. The ivy-leaved cyclamen grows outdoors in USDA Zones 5 to 7, and can take temperatures down to -20°F. Its resemblance to English ivy (Hedera helix) explains the specific epithet, hederifolium.

Although it has naturalized in the Pacific Northwest, it is native to rocky woodlands and scrub in the Mediterranean region, from southern France to Turkey, and to islands in the Mediterranean Sea. This species is adaptable, readily self-seeds, and grows from sea level to about 4,000′ in elevation.

In late summer and autumn, pink flowers with darker eyes emerge among the silver-mottled leaves. Cyclamen needs gritty soil with lots of organic matter to keep it happy. Roots of this species emerge from the sides and the top of the tuber. Be careful not to cultivate the soil above the tuber, which will damage roots and the “floral trunks”, extensions of the tuber that bear flower buds.

Large tubers of the ivy-leaved cyclamen that I grew for sale arrived in mid summer. I potted them into 4½” pots, slightly bigger than the tubers. Half the soil consisted of drainage material. Coarse sand, pine fines, and small gravel (like PermaTill) mixed with potting soil in a 1:1 ratio encouraged roots to grow. But they rooted…very…slowly. Tubers rot in soil that holds too much water, so good soil preparation is important for long-term success.

Hardy cyclamen.

Rooted In and Around

Decades ago, in Maryland, I planted a C. hederifolium tuber in a friend’s front yard, under a young Japanese maple. About 10 or 15 years later, she asked if it could be dug and taken to her new house. After some exploration, I felt a flattened tuber the size of a dinner-plate! But it was pinned in position by the aggressive roots of the maple tree.

It could not be pried loose, so it remains there today. Planted where the soil dries out while the tuber is dormant was probably part of the key to success. The maple absorbed a great deal of the water in spring and summer.

More Hardy Cyclamen Species

Here are some of the hardy cyclamen species, listed from more cold-tolerant first:

hederifolium (USDA Zones 5-7): described above.
coum (Zones 5 or 6 to 8): 4″ tall, small dark green or variegated leaves with deep red reverse. Pink to purple blooms appear in late winter to early spring. Similar to parviflorum, but coum grows at lower elevations in northern Turkey, and the two don’t hybridize.
purpurascens (Zones 6-7): fragrant deep pink flowers in summer. Its silver-mottled foliage is nearly evergreen. Native to northern Italy and central Europe.
cilicium (Zones 6-8): white to pale pink flowers in fall to winter, and silver-mottled leaves.
mirabile (Zones 6-8): small flowers in autumn.
parviflorum (Zones 6-9): a green-leaved species, from 4,000′ to 7900′ elevation (alpine tundra, subalpine meadow) in northern Turkey. Small tuber, only ¾” across.
repandum (Zones 7-8): coarsely toothed leaf margins, silver-marbled.
graecum (Zones 7-9): Greek cyclamen blooms in autumn with white or pink, often fragrant, flowers. From southern Greece and southern Turkey.

Collectors grow many of the species cyclamen, keeping them year-round in cool greenhouses. Information on websites varies regarding bloom time, flower color, and leaf color. Rare species and forms of species are available from specialty nurseries and garden clubs.

It takes a few years for cold-hardy species to flower from seed. In the wild, seeds are coated with a sweet sticky substance, which attracts ants. They feed on the sweet part, and discard the seeds. This method of seed dispersal, by ants, is called myrmecochory, in case you were wondering.

**Because of dwindling native populations, be sure to ask for “nursery-propagated tubers”. This is not synonymous with “nursery-grown tubers”.**

*** * * * * * * ***

Florist’s Cyclamen

This is the species that is most widely grown for indoor cultivation.

Cyclamen persicum comes from rocky hillsides, up to 3900′ elevation, in south-central Turkey, Israel, Jordan, and in parts of northern Africa. It is also found in some of the Greek islands, where monks grew it and introduced it to traders.

Native populations of this species had fragrant pink flowers. Although much of the fragrance has been lost in hybridization, some modern strains, especially the miniature and intermediate varieties, once again have some scent. They don’t throw scent far from their flowers, so smell the flowers before purchasing if fragrance is what you want.

Cyclamen are available in autumn, during the winter holidays, and for Valentine’s Day. In cool regions, some garden centers offer them in early spring.

Flowers come in a wide range of colors, including white, pink shades, salmon, scarlet, deep red, burgundy, lilac, and shades of purple. They can be solid or bicolor, or finely edged in a contrasting color (“picotee”). Breeders have come up with micro miniatures, miniatures, intermediates, and large-growing standard strains.

Foliage differs from one strain to another, some showing little silver mottling, and others showing bold silver variegation. Leaf margins can be smooth, lobed, or somewhat toothed. Flowers, too, can vary in form, from smooth to ruffled to fringed.

Keep cyclamen away from children and animals. Ingestion can cause abdominal distress, seizures, and even death.

Combinations

A few miniature cyclamen and variegated English ivy in a clay pot.

These were fast sellers where I attended winter farmers’ markets in Olney MD, around Washington, D.C., and at the Carroll County Christmas shows in Westminster, MD.

In a Basket

‘Frosty’ fern (Selaginella sp.), a fern ally.

In cool conditions, group together cyclamen, kalanchoe, ‘Frosty’ fern, and lemon button fern. Add a small pot of English ivy to trail over the sides. Small grasses, such as mondo grass or Carex, add textural contrast to combinations.

I kept the plants in their pots, and snuggled them together in baskets lined with plastic. Add Spanish or green sheet moss, holiday ribbon or raffia, and maybe some small pine cones for the finishing touches.

Never allow water to collect in the bottom of a pot cover or a decorative container.

In a Pot

They also can be potted together. Use a shallow pot that snugly fits the root systems of the plants; keep them potbound.

The popular ‘Frosty’ fern, a Selaginella, develops white tips in cool conditions, and must be kept moist. More options include Norfolk Island pine, English ivy, and other plants that take the same conditions.

Clay pots allow soil to dry faster than non-porous pots. Potting cyclamen with other plants can be a bit tricky, especially if light levels are not optimal. Their tubers can rot in pots that are too large or if the soil is too wet.

Strains of Florist’s Cyclamen

Marbled cyclamen foliage.

Most customers aren’t concerned with the name of the cyclamen, but some are. A strain called Verrano tolerates higher, but not tropical, temperatures. The new Dreamscape strain performs well over a longer period of time. These are good choices for landscape beds in moderate to cool temperatures during the “shoulder” seasons, when they’re not exposed to frost.

A few of the miniature strains growers sell for indoors are Mini Winter (also good in cool, moist landscapes), Fantasia, and Snowridge Mini. Intermediate strains include Laser, Snowridge Midi, and Allure. For larger pots (5″ to 7″), growers offer Sierra, Mammoth, Fleur en Vogue, and Friller.

Strains with heavy silver variegation are beautiful even without flowers. Picasso (fragrant flowers) and Silverado are two popular miniature cyclamen strains. Rembrandt is an intermediate cyclamen, and Winter Ice is a larger standard with broad silver markings. Halios ‘White Silverleaf’ is a newer white-flowering cultivar with wide silver edging on the leaves. Metalis, an intermediate strain introduced in the 2020 California spring trials, has a broad silver margin, a green central heart, and can be used indoors and in the landscape.

Varieties coming to market are bred for leaf color, flower fragrance, and disease resistance. Breeders also are looking for larger bloom counts and for blooms that bunch in the center. Another variety in the 2020 spring trials is the heat tolerant ‘Leopardo’.

What About the Seedpods?

Remove seedpods to encourage more blooms.

We normally remove faded flowers and their stems, encouraging more flowers to form. But, sometimes, for fun, I let seedpods develop at the end of the bloom cycle.

The flower stem curls curiously downward, and the pod splits open when the seeds are ripe. A fully developed seedpod resembles a grape.

Florist’s cyclamen grow quite easily from seed; they just take a long time to get to flowering size. Older strains of cyclamen needed 15 to 18 months from seed to flower. Newer varieties take only half that amount of time.

Seeds germinate soon after ripening if planted about ¼” deep. They germinate better in the dark, in high humidity, and with temperatures in the mid 60’s F. Tiny cyclamen leaves emerge after the tuber has begun to grow. I used to grow seedlings in 9-cell market packs until they were ready, months later, for 4″ pots. To save time, however, I purchased pre-finished cyclamen to sell at garden shows after they bulked up and came into flower.

Headings

Page 1: It’s Time For Cyclamen!, Hardy Cyclamen—We Can Take the Cold (Cyclamen Hederifolium, Rooted In and Around, More Hardy Cyclamen Species), Florist’s Cyclamen (Combinations, Strains Of Florist’s Cyclamen), and What About the Seedpods?

Page 2: Starting Out With Cyclamen, Choosing Cyclamen, Water, They Like It Cool (Miniature Cyclamen Might Be Easier), On a Chilly Porch, Dormancy, New Digs (Potting Soil), Fertilizer for Cyclamen, Light, Deadheading Cyclamen, and For Further Research

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