Potted Peppers For A Winter Harvest: 5 Easy Tips

2024

**Potted Peppers for Growing—in the Winter?**

‘Candy Cane’ sweet peppers.

Autumn Has Arrived!

With cool weather approaching, our attention shifts from harvesting heirloom tomatoes to preparing our gardens for winter. Some gardeners clean the shed, weed the beds, and pile fallen leaves onto bare soil or dig them into the ground. Others continue growing greens and vegetables outdoors. In this article, I’ll show you why and how to grow potted peppers through the winter!

Have You Ever Considered Growing Potted Peppers?

Peppers are warm-climate perennials that, with proper care, can live for a few years. Here’s the key: these frost-tender plants must stay indoors through the colder seasons.

For the coming months, you can enjoy moderate harvests for salads, stir-fries, dips, and veggie omelets. They’ll bear fruit over most of the cool season, from mid-autumn through spring, although not as heavily as they would in summer.

During the short days of January and February, the plants usually stop flowering, although fruits that have already set will continue developing. As days lengthen, the plants begin blooming and fruiting again.

Earlier this year, I retired the potted peppers—‘Aura’, ‘Glow’, and ‘Candy Cane’—I’d been growing for 3 years. But several others now fruiting in pots will take their place indoors for the winter.

With good sunlight and proper temperatures, I’ll harvest dozens of peppers from a few moderately sized plants. I’ve been doing this for years at other residences, but now the sunny enclosed porch makes it much easier.

As the temperature drops, warm season crops outdoors will not survive. Pepper plants begin to decline when temperatures dip below 50°F. If you decide to proceed with this project, you’ll need to watch the weather very carefully.

Early Fruits Next Summer

Peppers take quite a while to grow and mature. Most cultivars of peppers require around 2 months of growing time after transplanting into the garden for fruits to form. Since they must have warm soil and air temperatures, they can’t be planted too early. Even if frosts are over, the ground might still be too cold—from a few days of rain or cloudy weather—to plant sensitive crops, such as peppers and basil. They sulk or die in cold, wet soil.

If your last spring frost date is May 1, for example, you’ll pick your first bell pepper from a new transplant by mid-July. For a colorful ripe fruit, you’ll need to wait another 3 weeks. In contrast, potted peppers begin bearing fruits months earlier than new transplants set in the spring garden. You’ll enjoy a significant head start by overwintering these plants indoors. For that reason alone, you might decide to give this a try.

Many of my farmers’ market customers complained of poor flowering and fruit set due to extreme heat and drought this past summer (2024). Each variety of pepper and tomato has a threshold above which the pollen denatures, or dies. No living pollen = no pollination = no fruits. Some gardeners harvested no peppers at all! Growing potted pepper plants indoors could be the solution to poor harvests. Because they’ll be in flower and fruiting by the time they go outdoors for the summer, you’ll have harvested several peppers before the hottest months settle in.

Are you ready to expand your horticultural experience? If so, here are the 5 tips for growing potted peppers:

Tip #1: Start with Healthy Transplants

Young pepper seedlings in spring.

When planning your summer garden, consider keeping one or a few vegetable plants in pots. Keep in mind that some pepper varieties grow large while others attain only half that size. This information is often found in the catalog. Because roots are restricted, potted vegetables normally won’t grow as large as healthy plants in the garden.

A grower in your area might have kept some pepper plants from an early sowing. I ordinarily grow more than I can sell, so I keep a few dozen potted peppers well into the summer for customers who regretted not planting them earlier.

Another option is to start seeds in early summer. Raised in containers all season and properly fertilized, these plants grow fruits during the summer and continue as long as outdoor conditions favor growth. It helps to let the plants root into garden soil under the pots. This way, their roots can explore the soil for moisture and nutrients.

Later, you’ll sever the roots from each of the drainage holes, one at a time, giving the plant time to adjust before autumn arrives. The leaves probably will wilt somewhat as you cut the roots at the drainage holes, but less severely if you remove some of the foliage. For vigorously growing plants, it would be a good idea to cut back some of the stems by mid to late summer.

Look for plants without symptoms of disease, including wilt and heavily spotted or discolored leaves. Remove old pale or insect-eaten foliage. Potted peppers in winter might not have perfect foliage, but if the leaves are green and photosynthetic, they can remain on the plant.

Inadvertently, a few small peppers hang around here in their market packs, undernourished and barely alive, with some reduced to just a few leaves. Plants often can be restored to a healthier state with proper potting and pampering, as long as the roots have not been severely compromised.

Tip #2: Transplanting Potted Peppers

Orange and red ‘Lunchbox’ peppers.

The Pots

I transplant plants that prefer warmer conditions, particularly sweet or hot peppers, into black nursery pots. You can buy them or ask a landscaper or a local nursery if they can spare a few pots that they might otherwise discard or recycle. Black pots absorb more of the sun’s energy, helping to warm up the soil in cooler months.

Conversely, try to shade the pot so the soil doesn’t overheat in the summer. In hot climates, the sun bakes the soil on the sunny side and damages the roots. I either shade the black pots with other plants or drop them into larger white nursery pots. All pots must have drainage holes.

Avoid planting a young seedling directly into a 2-gallon pot. Instead, transplant the small plant into a 6″ pot and let it thoroughly root into that pot. A few weeks later, move it into the larger pot. This helps the plant develop roots with a more extensive branching structure.

Moisture in a pot behaves differently than moisture in the ground. New soil (with no roots growing through it) in a large pot stays saturated after a day of rain and could suffocate the roots. Even though much of the excess water drains through the holes, a layer of wetter soil remains in the bottom of the pot before it is absorbed by the roots. But in the ground, water is pulled through the soil by gravity and capillary action. As water drains, air is pulled into the soil. Roots need oxygen in the soil as much as they need water.

The Potting Soil

Potting soil should drain well, but it also should be able to hold some moisture and nutrients. Most potting soils today contain large amounts of wood products (bark, wood), which cause them to quickly drain and dry out. A few brands offer excellent soils, but they’re quite expensive.

I tailor the potting soil for each plant species by amending it with ingredients that improve either drainage or moisture retention. Clean garden loam, peat moss, compost, finely ground coir, and aged cow manure have smaller particles and, therefore, help hold water in the air pore spaces.

On the other hand, perlite, pine fines, pieces of wood, coarse coir, and expanded rock products introduce larger air pores spaces, facilitating drainage and drying the soil.

Information on the bag of soil usually indicates whether it’s best used in pots (“potting soil”, “raised beds”, or “container gardening”) or for planting in the garden (“planting mix”, “garden beds”, or “in-ground gardening”). Potting soils tend to have a finer texture than planting mixes.

Amend potting soil that seems coarse (has lots of large particles) with some of the components that hold moisture, as mentioned above. If you’re using more than a small amount of peat moss, which is very acidic, mix in a teaspoon of pulverized limestone. The soil pH should be around 6.0-6.5 for peppers, which is slightly acidic.

If in doubt, have the soil tested for pH and nutrients through your local cooperative extension service. Lime can take a while to work on the pH, so test your soil before adding lime.

The Process

Scoring the root ball encourages rapid re-rooting.

Most nursery pots have large drainage holes which can cause erosion of the soil. To prevent loss of soil, line the pot on the bottom and partway up the sides with a piece of landscape fabric, polyester fiberfill, or similar material. Water can still drain from the pot, but soil particles won’t wash though the holes. This compromises the plant’s ability to root into the ground beneath the pot, however, so you’ll need to carefully monitor soil moisture levels.

Fill the new pot almost to the rim with lightly dampened potting soil, firming gently. Before setting the plant into the new soil, score the outside of the root ball or use a fork to tease some of the roots out from the root ball. This slight damage stimulates the root system to branch out, helping new roots establish quickly in the soil.

Set the transplant into a hole in the center, and firm the soil around the root ball. Don’t bury the stem with new potting soil when transplanting peppers. If space is a consideration, 2 plants might comfortably fit into a pot that’s a bit larger than you’d use for just one plant. This works better for cultivars that normally grow into small or medium-sized plants.

The finished soil surface should be 1-2″ below the rim of the pot. A pot completely filled with soil can be quite messy when applying a thorough watering.

After planting the pepper, insert a stake (1-3′ long bamboo, a tomato cage, vinyl-clad metal, or a twig) all the way to the bottom of the pot. Secure the stem with twine, but not tightly, to keep the stem upright. The main stem or side branches heavy with fruits will slump over and might need additional support as the plant grows.

The First Watering

Water the plant. Apply enough water to soak the original root ball and some of the soil surrounding it. Thoroughly watering a new transplant needlessly leaches nutrients out through the drainage holes.

As roots grow into the soil, you’ll need to moisten more of the soil volume. If you begin this process by midsummer, the pot will have filled with roots by late summer to early autumn.

Plants slow their growth as days shorten, so they might struggle to fully root into their pots if you delay transplanting until autumn. If you transplant them at that time, be very careful not to overwater.

Keep the potted peppers outdoors in full sun (7-8+ hours/day) through the summer and early fall, or until nighttime temperatures drop below 55°F. While pepper plants can tolerate colder conditions than that once in a while—but not close to freezing—exposing them to low temperatures on consecutive nights weakens them.

Varieties of Potted Peppers I’m Growing This Year

‘Flavorburst’ is a medium-large sweet bell pepper that starts out lime green and matures to a golden orange color. The flavor is milder than the deep green bells. The plant is a medium-large grower, so it’s in a 3-gallon pot.

‘Olympus’ is a medium-sized plant growing in a 2-gallon pot. This large, deep green bell pepper turns red when fully ripe. I’ll harvest most ‘Olympus’ peppers, however, in the mature green stage when preparing curried tuna or sweet-and-sour chicken.

Red ‘Lunchbox’ pepper.

‘Lunchbox’ peppers are medium-sized plants. They grow very well in 1-2-gallon pots over the winter. The red fruits on some plants are rather small, so most of the ones I’m saving ripen to orange.

‘Aura’ and ‘Gourmet’, in 1- or 2-gallon pots, are orange-when-ripe bell peppers on small plants. Sweet bell peppers that ripen to orange contain extremely high levels of zeaxanthin—10 times more than ripe red peppers. The antioxidants zeaxanthin and lutein help preserve eyesight. (Spinach, pistachios, goji berries, and egg yolks also boast high levels of these antioxidants.) If I need bell peppers when my plants aren’t producing, I usually buy orange bells. I’ve read that orange hot peppers do not contain those elevated levels of zeaxanthin.

‘Candy Cane’, a sweet pepper with green and white variegated leaves, is among the potted peppers I’ll grow again this winter. The fruits grow irregularly striped green and creamy-yellow, ripening to bright red (photo, top). This cultivar needs full direct sun to maintain good variegation in both the foliage and the fruits. Even if it loses its white splotches, it will yield good peppers.

‘Jimmy Nardello’s Italian Frying Pepper’ has long, curved, red, sweet fruits when mature. At the last minute, before cool weather moved in, I literally yanked 2 young plants out of the ground and potted them into 6″ pots for now.

You can dig up peppers that aren’t very big but try to keep the root system intact. Removing half of the foliage (by cutting back the stems) and light shade for a couple of days can help prevent severe wilt. Then, with good sunlight and careful watering, they can recover.

I don’t eat hot peppers and will sell the rest of the potted habaneros, cayennes, and jalapeños. ‘Helios’ habanero is so cute with its bright orange lanterns hanging on small glossy-leaved plants. It’s ornamental qualities merit keeping it around during the autumn holidays.

Habanero pepper ‘Helios’.

Headings

Page 1: Autumn Has Arrived! (Have You Ever Considered Growing Potted Peppers?, Early Fruits Next Summer), Tip #1: Start with Healthy Transplants, Tip #2: Transplanting Potted Peppers (The Pots, The Potting Soil, The Process, The First Watering, Varieties of Potted Peppers I’m Growing This Year)

Page 2: Tip #3: Caring for Your Potted Peppers (Direct Sunlight and Temperature, Artificial Light, Water for Potted Peppers, Fertilizer, Timed Release Fertilizer, “Should I use organic fertilizer?”), Tip #4: Pollinating Your Potted Peppers, Tip #5: Fruits from Your Potted Peppers (No New Fruits?)

Return to the top

Pages: 1 2

How To Plant a Strawberry Jar

Jun6

How To Grow Plants In a Strawberry Jar

blue glazed strawberry jar planted with violas

A glazed strawberry jar planted with violas.

Have you ever wanted to plant a strawberry jar but just weren’t sure how to do it? In this article, I’ll provide lots of tips that will ensure a successful outcome.

Strawberry jars (or strawberry pots), those with pockets on the sides, make fascinating container gardens. You can find jars made of terra cotta or plastic, and ceramics with beautiful glazed finishes.

Over the past several years, the stackable plastic sorts have become popular. They are less expensive, true, but it’s hard to walk away from that ceramic strawberry jar that caught your eye (and your heart) at the garden show.

Yes, strawberry plants can be grown in strawberry jars. But, there are many other options, including succulents, herbs, annuals, and even houseplants.

Planting Succulents In a Strawberry Jar

A clay strawberry jar with hens and chicks.

Terra cotta jars dry out fast because the material is porous, so we must manage them carefully. The succulents, however, love terra cotta!

Dwarf succulents, such as hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum, S. arachnoideum), are perfect candidates for strawberry pots. A related genus, Jovibarba, grows in a similar fashion. Both need full sun and don’t mind drying out now and then. Excess growth is easily plucked off and planted elsewhere. The little “chicks”—offsets growing from stolons—cluster close to the “hen”.

To add a little variety to the hens and chicks, include other hardy succulents, such as the small growing Sedum dasyphyllum, S. makinoi ‘Ogon’, S. spurium, and S. ‘Angelina’. Plant Sedum ‘Ogon’ on the north side to avoid sun scald. Most of these sedums are less winter hardy than the hens and chicks, so check their hardiness zones.

Sempervivum varieties grow rosettes of foliage (photo, above) and are available in many colors and bicolors, including green, gray, red, and burgundy. More recent introductions include colors of the sunset in their leaves (‘Gold Nugget’, ‘Orange Glow’). Some varieties have spider webbing, with fine white hairs connecting one leaf tip to another. The leaves of a variety called ‘Oddity from Albidum’ look as though they’ve been rolled into tubes.

When It Gets Cold

Hens and chicks are hardy to USDA zone 3 or 4 when they’re planted in the ground. Because roots are exposed to colder air temperatures, however, potted hens and chicks are hardy probably up to the warmer zone 5 or 6.

I’ve seen clay strawberry pots filled with hens and chicks that had been left out all winter in zone 6 Maryland. Because hens and chicks are hardy perennials, they normally survive winter weather. To avoid damaging the pot, though, it’s best to prevent it from repeatedly freezing and thawing. Clay absorbs water, and water expands when it freezes, so, eventually clay pots will weaken.

Keeping the pot quite dry or protected in a sunny shed during freezing weather will help it last longer. Another option is to remove plants from the strawberry jar and heel them into the garden for the winter. Then you can clean the pot, store it dry over the winter, and replant the same plants, or parts of them, in spring.

Gardeners living where winters are moderate to mild can leave hardy succulents outdoors, but others living in cold regions risk losing their terra cotta strawberry pots. You can use plastic strawberry pots instead. Ceramic pots labeled “frost resistant” probably will survive winter weather.

For non-porous pots (plastic and ceramic) that will be planted with succulents, mix a large quantity of extra pine fines, coarse sand, and/or perlite into the soil for faster drainage. Because clay strawberry jars dry out much faster than non-porous pots, they’re the better choice for succulents. However, with enough drainage material, succulents should do well in any pot.

: Several varieties of Sempervivum, or hens and chicks…

: …and Sedum makinoi ‘Ogon’.

The Tender Succulents

For the summer growing season, add rooted cuttings from tender (non-hardy) succulents (Echeveria, Haworthia, Gasteria, miniature burro’s tail, dwarf aloe, small cacti, etc.) for their unique coloring and form. Use small, clustering types of plants in the side pockets. Plant a few larger or taller types in the top of the pot. Avoid plants that grow too large because they’ll make the pot appear top-heavy.

All the tender succulents will perish if left outside to freeze. If you want to save them, place the pot in a sunny greenhouse. If you don’t have one, transplant the plants into clay pots at the end of the summer. You could also take cuttings in mid- to late summer so they’ll be rooted by early autumn. Keep tender succulents in sunny windows indoors.

: Haworthia fasciata.

: A variety of succulents, including an Echeveria in bloom.

: Orange-red “Jelly Beans”, Sedum rubrotinctum.

: Haworthia liliputana.

: Pachyphytum oviferum in the middle.

: Gasteria, at top, and Haworthias.

Planting Herbs In a Strawberry Jar

Herbs newly planted in a clay strawberry jar (waiting for basil for the top.)

Strawberry jars planted with flavorful herbs were sure sellers at the garden shows. When using ceramic containers, check to see if they have non-toxic glazes. Sometimes you’ll see a sticker indicating that the pot is “not suitable for contact with food”, so I would not use those pots for herbs.

Violas planted in the glazed strawberry jar (photo, top of article) sold years ago, in late winter, at the Maryland Home and Garden Show. The manufacturer guaranteed that their pots were resistant to cracking in freezing weather and safe for edible plants. Win-win!

If the root ball doesn’t quite fit the shape of the pocket, a little molding will be necessary. Smaller divisions, younger seedlings, and rooted cuttings fit better into tight pockets. Look for plants in 2-2½” pots or cell packs, or grow your own from seed.

Planting mint with other herbs in a strawberry jar will result in mint growing from every opening! Therefore, it’s best to leave mint and lemon balm to themselves or construct an iced tea pot for the current season.

All plants will get adequate sunlight when growing outdoors in summer, especially if you turn the pot periodically. However, with limited sun indoors, it’s very difficult for all plants in a strawberry pot to get enough sun. This kind of pot will grow well in a sunny lean-to or a greenhouse. But, for growing herbs indoors in winter, choose a pot with a single growing plane. A window box planted with herbs or a simple pot will work better.

: Rosemary.

: Italian oregano.

: Chives in bloom.

: Italian (flat-leaf) parsley.

: Dwarf ‘Boxwood’ basil.

: Miniature purple basil.

: Variegated lemon thyme.

: Purple sage.

Which Herbs?

Dwarf and creeping varieties of herbs do well in strawberry jars. Use what you like, but trim the larger varieties more often to keep them in scale and for new foliage. Potted plants generally grow to a more restrained size compared to those planted in the garden. Look for herbs at local garden centers or farmers’ markets.

Here’s a sampling, with habit of growth:

Basil—small growing ‘Boxwood’, ‘Fino Verde’, ‘Marseillais Dwarf’, miniature purple, ‘Yevani’, ‘Spicy Globe’; the larger ‘Genovese Compact’, ‘Mrs. Burns’ Lemon’, ‘Obsession’ (or other basil downy mildew resistant varieties), ‘Siam Queen’ Thai. Upright, shrubby.
Chives—look for the finer-leaved variety ‘Dolores’, but any will work. Upright, tufted.
Cilantro—‘Calypso’ and ‘Cruiser’ seem to be the sturdiest, but all are short-lived. Clumping, tufted.
Dill—use small varieties, such as ‘Fernleaf’, ‘Teddy’. Upright.
Oregano—Greek, ‘Hot ‘n’ Spicy’, Italian. Clumping when young, then trailing.
Parsley—curly or flat-leaf varieties, try to find the dwarf flat-leaf ‘Titan’. Upright, tufted.
Roman chamomile—fragrant foliage but few flowers. Clumping, creeping.
Rosemary—‘Blue Boy’ (dwarf), ‘Chef’s Choice’ (intermediate), ‘Irene’ and ‘Mrs. Howard’s Creeping’ (prostrate varieties), ‘Golden Rain’ (variegated), ‘Hill Hardy’, ‘Salem’. Upright shrubby or trailing.
Sage—‘Berggarten’, dwarf silver sage, ‘Icterina’ (gold-variegated), purple, ‘Tricolor’ (mildest flavor). Upright, shrubby.
Savory—creeping dwarf savory. Clumping, spreading.
Sweet marjoram—‘Compactum’ (my favorite) and others, similar to oregano. Upright shrubby or trailing.
Thyme—‘Caraway’, French, ‘Golden Variegated’ (variegated lemon), ‘Hi Ho Silver’ (variegated), ‘Lemonade’, ‘Silver Edge’, ‘Transparent Yellow’, ‘Wedgewood’, and many others. Plant pots with several kinds of thyme for an “All Thyme High”. Clumping, trailing.
Viola—a smaller cousin of the pansy, edible flowers and leaves, needs cool weather. Clumping.

Herbs have different life cycles. The annuals (basil, cilantro, dill) need to be replaced once or twice each year. Parsley and viola are biennials. The rest of the listed plants are perennials, but check their USDA hardiness zone ratings to see how much cold they’ll tolerate.

Other Plants For a Strawberry Jar

Colorful annuals spilling out of a large strawberry pot is a lovely sight. For a garden that gets shade or dappled shade, look for the newer ‘Imara’ impatiens, which is impatiens downy mildew resistant. Wax begonias and miniature fuchsias are more possibilities for morning sun or dappled shade.

Dwarf vinca (annual and perennials varieties), bacopa, fanflower (Scaevola), calibrachoa, miniature petunia, diascia, nemesia, alyssum, small varieties of coleus, and plants used in miniature gardens brighten sunny spots. Grow small varieties of scented geraniums for their wonderful fragrances.

Try planting a strawberry pot with houseplants, such as Ceropegia (string of hearts), wandering Jew (Tradescantia spp.), Pilea ‘Aquamarine’, creeping Charlie (Pilea depressa), Peperomia, baby tears (Helxine), moses-in-the-boat (Rhoeo), and dwarf ferns. Small-leaved cultivars of variegated English ivy and rex or rhizomatous begonias add foliage color. Summering outdoors results in vigorous growth, so cut back overgrown plants.

Use plants that need the same conditions, either moist or somewhat dry, sunny or shady. I’ve included photographs of a few candidates, but there are many more worth considering:

: Impatiens ‘Imara’.

: Pilea ‘Aquamarine’.

: Rex begonia leaf.

: Trailing bacopa.

: Calibrachoa.

: Sweet alyssum.

Headings

Page 1: How To Grow Plants In a Strawberry Jar, Planting Succulents In a Strawberry Jar (When It Gets Cold, The Tender Succulents), Planting Herbs In a Strawberry Jar (Which Herbs?), and Other Plants for a Strawberry Jar

Page 2: Planting a Strawberry Jar (The Process), and Maintaining the Strawberry Jar (Light, Water, Fertilizer, Pruning)

Return to the top

Pages: 1 2

Herb Gardens: How To Grow Herbs In Pots

May11

2021

Updated 3/14/2024

Herb Gardens: The Scents and Flavors of Summer

Fresh ‘Genovese’ basil for the garden salad…savory French thyme on grilled fish…chives and flat parsley to enliven the egg salad and browned potatoes. Yummy! This lengthy article describes how you can plant and enjoy growing herb gardens in containers. Growing potted herbs on the balcony or the sunny patio is the perfect solution if you have no garden space.

Potted herb gardens can be moved around to get just the right amount of sunlight the plants need. They can enjoy the morning sun on one side of the deck, and a few additional hours of afternoon sun on the other. As the sun’s arc changes from one season to the next, you can reposition the plants to capture the most light.

Several years ago, a gentleman asked me to pot herbs into a large strawberry jar. He traveled frequently between his residence and a summer home at the beach. Because he was a keen cook, he planned to take this herb garden with him to the next kitchen, wherever it was. So, if not prohibited where you’ll be traveling, consider taking your herb garden with you on your next road trip!

The Gift That Keeps On Giving

Place herb gardens on the picnic table for family and guests to sample as they enjoy the day’s barbecue. And then, in autumn, you can continue the harvest by growing them in sunny windows indoors.

Using herbs to flavor foods might help you kick the salt habit, or at least decrease its consumption. In addition to their wonderful flavors, herbs have high concentrations of beneficial antioxidants, which contribute to our well-being. In decreasing order, oregano, rosemary, parsley, basil, and thyme contain the most antioxidants among the common herbs.

I’ve sold herb gardens as wedding or birthday presents, for Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Christmas, and as housewarming gifts. Families purchased herb gardens for retiring parents, who planned to devote more time to gardening. Over decades of selling potted plants, I estimate that about half of these delightful combinations were given as gifts.

Choosing the Right Containers for Herb Gardens

Style and Size

Visit any well-stocked garden center and you’ll see an extensive selection of terra cotta (clay), stoneware, ceramic, wood, and inexpensive plastic pots. Containers are available in all sizes and shapes. Plain or ornate finishes reflect modern, rustic, or classic styles. You’ll also find containers specially fitted for deck railings or for hanging on a wall. Plant a half whiskey barrel with one or more mint varieties, and let them take over…in the pot, that is.

Some ceramics are glazed with materials that should not be used with edible plants. There might be a sticker on the bottom indicating this.

Rabbits are cute, but…

Small clay pots dry out faster than large non-porous pots. Just one day too many in direct sun without water could kill the plants. Lining a clay pot with food-grade plastic and poking a few holes in the bottom will slow the evaporation to a degree. To be sure, your herb gardens—especially small ones—will need daily checking.

Potting herbs in hanging baskets is a great solution if you live where deer and rabbits are waiting for the instant you turn your back. They’re particularly attracted to parsley, cilantro, and dill.

Herbs need excellent drainage, so always choose pots that have holes in the bottom. Other than that requirement, just select the pots that appeal to you. Many gardeners look for a consistent style, favoring pots that harmonize with each other and with the setting.

Window Boxes

Clay pots for herb gardens.

A popular container for herb gardens is the window box. Window boxes come in many styles, from quite simple to highly ornate. They’re available in terra cotta (lower shelf in photo, above), plastic, and lined or unlined wood. Plastic containers often have plugs in the drainage holes; remove them to ensure proper drainage.

You can hang them outside windows in securely anchored frames; lighter weight containers are a safer bet. Or simply place them on a brick wall, along a sidewalk, or at the edge of a sunny patio. Several herbs in clay pots look charming clustered together on a table. Where wind is a concern, use heavier pots, but don’t place them where they could blow off the balcony to the sidewalk and harm someone.

Cracking

Handle clay pots carefully so they won’t crack. Clay pots might tolerate one or a few seasons of freezing weather; eventually most will begin to spall or crack. When clay absorbs water, and the water expands as it freezes, the clay degrades. Denser terra cotta (Italian for “baked earth”) survives more winters than softer clay.

This clay pot (photo, right) spent almost a decade outside, and it cracked this past winter. Until it crumbles, it will serve some purpose in the garden. I usually used Italian clay pots for my plant business and acknowledge that even better-quality pottery has limits.

Switching herbs into frost-resistant pots where winters are cold is one option. Other options include growing them indoors, in a cold frame, or in a conservatory—in other words, where the pots won’t freeze.

Tuscan Style

Years ago, I planted two herb gardens for a customer in Potomac, Maryland. They sat on a low stone wall surrounding a sunny Mediterranean-style garden. The Italian clay window boxes were over 4′ long and weighed more than 50 pounds empty. They were beautiful when finished—all those shades of green, purple, gray, variegated white and yellow—and the fragrances!

Even without flowers, potted herb gardens have their own unmistakable charm. Green algae and that white coating (efflorescence, from mineral salts) building up on clay pots won’t harm the plants but will amplify the rustic factor. And, yes, you can clean it off if you prefer.

Long Toms

Long toms, also called rose pots, are taller than they are wide (top shelf and part of next one, in photo under “Window Boxes”). Variegated lemon thyme or prostrate rosemary cascading over the side are perfect choices.

These pots are available in tiny sizes only 2″ wide, but 4″, 5″, and 6″ pots are more useful. Offer small herb containers as party favors for special occasions or use them to assign seating around the table.

While in Maryland, I potted herbs into 3″ stainless steel long toms for the tables at a popular seafood restaurant. I switched them out every couple of weeks.

I used to purchase clay long toms from a wholesale supplier in Baltimore. They normally came without drainage holes, so I added them, using a reversible drill and a masonry bit. Easy.

Plain Pots

“Azalea” pots are 3/4 as tall as they are wide.

Reusing what you have sitting around the garage is most economical.

Clean out those 12″ hanging baskets that held annuals last year, and repurpose them for herb gardens, with or without the wires. Green plastic pots last longer than white ones, which degrade faster in direct sun.

Empty the tired old soil into the shrub gardens and purchase new potting soil for your project. Some plants, particularly basil, are susceptible to several soil borne diseases. Starting with clean materials, therefore, is critical for their success. Wipe down used pots with a 10% bleach solution, rinse, and air-dry…for basil, at least.

Azalea pots are a bit shorter than they are wide and lend a more anchored look to potted plants. I prefer azalea pots over standard pots (height = width). It’s a personal choice, of course. You can pot them up with one plant or use a larger pot for a few plants.

Topiary

Rosemary and lavender topiary standards (the lollipop shape) look great in clay azalea pots, with some moss growing on the soil surface. Grow them indoors, in full sun, where they’re protected from hard winter freezes. But keeping them outdoors—even in chilly weather—ensures they get enough direct sunlight.

Try training the woody herbs “quasi-bonsai” style, with knobby stems, a few little weeds, and a fallen “log” embedded in the moss. Allowing the clay to mellow with algae and efflorescence, and those pots aren’t so plain after all.

Strawberry Pots

Lemon thyme in a clay strawberry jar.

Planting a strawberry jar is a bit more complicated, so it deserves a post of its own. If your attempts at planting a strawberry pot have been less than successful, refer to this article for solutions.

Pot Color

A fine point often overlooked in container gardening is the color of the pot. In summer, with scorching sun bearing down on a dark pot, that heat transfers to the soil. Consequently, the root system will be sparse on the hot side of the pot. Plants are happier without this stress.

You can alleviate their discomfort by shading the root system in summer with smaller pots of heat tolerant plants, such as dwarf zinnias or vinca. Or use white pots in hot weather to lower the temperature.

In autumn, I plant cool season greens and herbs in black nursery pots. Dark colors absorb more energy from the sun. Warming the soil a moderate amount helps limit the deep freeze in winter. The longer the roots can function, the more foliage I’ll be able to pick.

Curiously, clay pots with moist soil can feel cooler to the touch. This is due to evaporative cooling, where the temperature decreases as water evaporates from the surface. So, even in hot weather, a clay pot won’t feel as hot as most other pots. Your skin performs the same function.

Choosing pot colors might not be an option. Alternatively, plant herbs that dislike heat (such as cilantro) on the cooler north (northern hemisphere) or east side of the pot.

Choosing the Right Plants for Herb Gardens

A Proper Fit

First, decide which herbs you want to grow. Look for smaller varieties of the herbs you use in cooking, choosing young but well-rooted transplants. These will adapt better to containers than full size varieties. Sometimes there’s not much choice; maybe only ‘Italian Large Leaf’ basil is available. Okay, I’d rather have it than no basil at all, so there are 4 options when using large-growing herbs:

use fewer herbs in the herb garden to make room for the big basil
keep the basil in the combination pot, but cut it back more frequently
find a larger pot for the herb garden
grow this large basil by itself

We need to find a balance between plant size and available space relative to what other plants need. You can fit a few plants together, but they suffer when cramming all the herbs you like into too small a container. Plants growing in pots, however, don’t grow as large as those in the ground.

Seeds and Transplants

Seeds can be sown directly in the pots, but thin them once they sprout. Remember that some species are very slow to germinate, and you most likely will have better success with transplants. For new gardeners, I suggest buying young plants for now, and perhaps experimenting with seeds during the summer. But if the herbs you need are available only as seed, go for it.

Garden centers and farmers’ markets offer a wide variety of herbs grown as transplants. Some growers start them from seed, cuttings, or plugs (very young plants) several times a year. In one growing season, you might find dozens of varieties of basil alone! So, shop around for the local herb lady, and request certain plants she might grow for you.

I included a section on Propagating Herbs, which you’ll find on Page 5.

What’s the Difference Between Herbs and Spices?

: Cilantro, the herb.

: Coriander, the spice.

Although we use the two terms interchangeably, there is a difference between them. Herbs are leaves of edible plants, and the focus of this article. Spices comprise all other parts of edible plants—bark, seeds, roots, fruits, and flower parts.

Cilantro leaves and coriander seeds come from the same plant, but those interested in this minor technicality differentiate between the herb and the spice.

Turmeric, ginger, vanilla extract, nutmeg, cinnamon, and black pepper are spices that we keep in the pantry. Saffron, the world’s most expensive spice, comes from the 3 threadlike female parts in a fall-blooming Crocus sativus flower.

Return to the top of Page 1

Headings:

Page 1: The Gift That Keeps On Giving, Choosing the Right Containers for Herb Gardens (Style and Size, Window Boxes, Long Toms, Plain Pots, Pot Color), Choosing the Right Plants for Herb Gardens (A Proper Fit, Seeds and Transplants, What’s the Difference Between Herbs and Spices?)

Page 2: Which Herbs Are Annuals? Biennials? Perennials?

Page 3: Herb Gardens Close To the Kitchen, Combination Pots, Potting Up Herb Gardens, How To Maintain Herb Gardens (Light, Natural Sunlight, Artificial Light)

Page 4: Tips For Watering Herb Gardens (Transpiration, Why Plants Wilt, Testing for Moisture, From Season To Season, Water Temperature), Fertilizing Herb Gardens (Organic or Synthetic?, Macronutrients and Micronutrients, How Often To Fertilize Herbs, When We Don’t Fertilize, The Taste Test), Temperature (As Temperatures Change)

Page 5: Common Pests (Better Options To Eradicate Pests, Bacillus Thuringiensis, Horticultural Oil, Organic Sluggo, Plain Water), Girth Control (It’s Thyme For Drying, Which Herbs Dry Well?), Renovating Herb Gardens (Propagating Herbs)

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5

Potted Bulbs: Tips For Planting A Lasagna Pot

Nov26

“Good things come to those who wait.”

Everyone has heard this saying. Gardeners who plant spring-flowering bulbs in their gardens must necessarily agree. We’re a patient lot, and expect to wait for apples, for tomatoes, for fat mounds of ‘Great Expectations’ hosta. And we wait for spring.

We wait…and we watch. In fact, both of those words derive from the Anglo-French waiter, to watch over, and the earlier Old High German wahta, to watch.

Snowdrops (Galanthus).

And then, one day in January or February, maybe March where you live, the first of the early snowdrops’ nodding bells dare to defy ankle high snow. With the next break in the weather, snow crocuses reveal their sprightly blooms, followed by bold spears of early daffodils. When their cheery yellow trumpets open, they demand attention, proclaiming to the world, “We’re here!”

Yellow daffodils in the garden.

Daffodils bring life to a chilly landscape, and, at the same time, they assure us that spring is either here or near. Their warm colors—various shades of yellow, orange, salmon and peach—are a psychological cup of hot chocolate. But I also love the white and pink varieties. Fragrant ‘Bell Song’ is a favorite, with a light pink cup and white outer petals. ‘Mount Hood’ is a substantial and long-lasting variety, first creamy, then mostly white.

But, if digging in cold soil is not your cup of tea, perhaps another option will interest you. This alternative can be accomplished in the kitchen or the garage. Or on the back porch. And it won’t take long to do.

Potted Bulbs—The “Lasagna Pot”

This project involves growing spring-flowering bulbs in pots, planted close together. Blooms open in late winter, in some areas, and continue to please for weeks, or even months, afterward. Often called lasagna pots, they’re simply generously sized pots filled with layers of bulbs.

Because we don’t intend to keep the bulbs in the pots from year to year, it’s perfectly acceptable to space them so they’re almost touching. That’s how we get the most flowers. We do, however, want to place them close to the proper depth. Growth emerging from the bulbs is narrow and pointed, and it will easily find its way through the bulbs above them.

Suggestions For Types Of Bulbs To Use

Spring-flowering bulbs can be classified based on timing of bloom. Early, mid, and late spring bulbs keep the flowers coming for a long season of color. Snowdrops and snow crocuses are early, and larger Dutch crocuses bloom in early to mid spring. Hyacinth’s blooms scent the air in mid spring, followed by grape hyacinths, which continue to late spring. Many thousands of kinds of daffodils and tulips bloom early, mid, or late season, depending on variety.

Puschkinia libanotica, a spreader.

Don’t overlook the minor bulbs or unusual varieties. It’s always fun to try something new. Check out Allium, Chionodoxa, Ipheion, Ornithogalum, Puschkinia, and Scilla. They’ll add another dimension at less cost than the same number of tulips, hyacinths, or daffodils. And, due to their small size, you plant them only a few inches deep.

See what the garden center is stocking this year, or consider the vast offerings from mail order sources. Keep in mind that the longer the bulbs stay at comfortable shopper-friendly temperatures in the stores, the more they dry up. So, purchase them soon after they become available in autumn, and keep them cool (under 50°F), but not freezing, until you plant them. Feel the bulbs, choosing those that are plump and firm.

Perfect Timing…Or Not

You can orchestrate a perfectly sequential roll-out of flowers, timed so three of these will follow or coincide with 5 of those. Looks good on paper…but in real life, potted bulbs respond, more or less, to their own internal clocks.

Don’t obsess over the timing. Use catalog descriptions as somewhat vague guidelines. Just enjoy the process, the anticipation, the flowers.

The Process

The Pot

First choose a pot. The larger it is, the more bulbs will fit. It should be deep enough to accommodate large tulips or daffodils, which will be planted about 8″ below the soil surface. Plan on about an inch between the top of the soil and the pot’s rim.

Look for pots that are frost resistant, or use plastic pots. The pot needs to have a drainage hole.

I chose a decorative clay pot, 12″ wide and deep. And there’s algae growing on the sides, adding a rustic element.

Two 10″ or 12″ plastic pots that fit into your ceramic pots by the front door can be planted now, and kept cool over the winter. When they begin to sprout, simply slip them into the pretty pots. Add preserved moss, colorful twigs, and a few pine cones to the inserts for a finished look. In late winter, you can add small violas, if there’s room, for more color. They’ll take the cold weather, up to zone 5 on the USDA plant hardiness zone map.

Polyester Fiberfill

Polyester fiberfill.

Use a small handful of this synthetic fluffy material to cover the drainage hole. Water will drain through it, but the soil will stay inside the pot. I use it for all potted plants to prevent erosion, from 2″ clay pots for dwarf succulents up to the largest pots.

Another advantage is that polyester fiberfill prevents ants, earthworms, sowbugs, and other critters from crawling inside the pot through the drainage hole. Because it doesn’t rot, it can be used again. You’ll find it at any hobby or craft store.

I never add rocks or gravel in the bottom of the pots.

Potting Soil

Potting soil with a high percentage of pine fines can be mixed with a more peaty soil.

Use fresh potting soil that drains well. Mix in pine fines or coarse sand if your soil is heavily composted and stays wet. Avoid using any kind of manure near the bulbs.

Add a few inches of soil to the bottom of the pot, and lightly firm it in. This is where the first of the bulbs will be planted, so measure the depth.

Not sure how deep to plant them? If in doubt, plant so the bottom of the bulb will be as deep in the soil as three times the height of the bulb. The small minor bulbs can be planted four or five times their height. But don’t stress over it; there’s some wiggle room when planting bulbs.

Headings

Page 1: “Good things come to those who wait.”, Potted Bulbs—The “Lasagna” Pot, Suggestions For Types Of Bulbs To Use (Perfect Timing…Or Not), and The Process (The Pot, Polyester Fiberfill, Potting Soil)

Page 2: Planting the Bulbs (Narcissus ‘Ice Follies’, N. ‘Pipit’, N. ‘Tête-à-Tête’, Brodiaea ‘Queen Fabiola’, Muscari ‘Dark Eyes’, and Crocus ‘Yellow Mammoth’), Mulch and Water, Caring for the Potted Bulbs, How Cold?, Can We Grow the Potted Bulbs Again?, and Update: Here’s How the Lasagna Pot Did This Spring

Return to the top

Pages: 1 2

Tips For Planting A Potted Miniature Garden

Sep15

2019

Down To Earth Garden Center, and Planting a Miniature Garden

On a recent drive to the mountains of North Carolina, I passed by Down To Earth Garden Center. Maybe it was the charming picket fence, or the need to save time and buy a few packs of vegetables for the deck pots. Either way, the inviting entrance lured me back.

Plus, when living in West Virginia, waaaay back in the 1970’s, I wholesaled potted houseplants to a popular shop called Down To Earth, in the downtown Morgantown retail district. Fond memories…

Down To Earth Garden Center is located at 1080 South Trade Street, in Tryon NC. Fran and Gary Garside are the owners, and Kiara and Dylan offered friendly greetings and help. After a quick turn around the yard, I asked permission to take a few photographs for the blog. Oliver, the friendly terrier, had no objections, either.

Here’s another small but meticulously maintained garden center.

Check out their facebook page, Down To Earth Garden Center, in Tryon NC.

Phone: 828 859-2283. Call for new hours.

: Chrysanthemums…

: …for warm autumn color.

The Newest Project

An empty blue ceramic pot sits in our front garden, begging for employment. A while ago, I sowed a pack of older zinnia seeds in it, but they didn’t germinate. So, the pot is looking for work. Construction on our home and others in the neighborhood this summer prohibited any large scale gardening, so I’m eager to exercise some creative horticulture before frost.

Thuja ‘Primo’, an arborvitae.

Seeing the dozen or so varieties of hardy dwarf evergreens at Down To Earth Garden Center, I instantly knew what my next project would be. The pot to be planted is roughly 16″ square and 8″ deep. There’s plenty of room for a collection of miniatures, some rocks and gravel, and driftwood with character.

The term “driftwood” is loosely applied here, referring to any piece of weathered wood or woody root. Most of the small pieces I’ve gathered have come from the woods, not from a body of water.

Fairy Gardens

In recent years, this style of garden has been called a “fairy garden”, but some gardeners simply refuse to call it that. Let’s just call them miniature gardens. If you or your grandchildren want to dress them up with happy gnomes and resin residences, go right ahead. But for me, a natural landscape is the way to go.

By the way, this is not a new trend in gardening. I remember planting terrariums for a florist in New Jersey, more than 4 decades ago. I used dwarf tropicals, driftwood, rocks and gravel, and life-like little “faux” mushrooms. Merchandisers, however, have captured attention from new audiences by calling them fairy gardens.

Any hobby shop you visit will be stocked with associated paraphernalia, from named fairies and cute cottages to stone staircases. This could be a fun introduction into gardening for our younger folks.

Tropicals For a Miniature Garden

Although I will be constructing a garden using cold-hardy species, you might prefer using tropicals for indoor gardens. Garden centers stock miniature plants in 1 1/2″ to 2″ pots for this purpose. You’ll find them as stores gear up for the busy fall (or spring) growing season, but many stock them year-round.

Some species stay small while others eventually will grow too large for a miniature garden. But for a year or so, they’ll do fine. You can find all sorts of ferns, Nephthytis, young palms, peperomia, pilea, baby tears, little succulents for sun, philodendron, and pothos. Young trees, such as Podocarpus, aralia (Polyscias), dracaena, Serissa, and Norfolk Island pine also are available.

Little Evergreens For the Miniature Garden

***Picea* and *Thuja***

Some of the hardy dwarf evergreens at the garden center.

From Down To Earth, I selected Picea abies ‘Jana’, a Norway spruce, and Picea glauca ‘Blue Planet’, a white spruce. Each of these globular evergreens grows only 1″ to 2″ in a year when planted in the garden, and less than that in a pot. Their needles are a whopping 1/4″ to 1/3″ long!

Upright growing Thuja occidentalis ‘Primo’, an eastern arborvitae, grows 2″ to 4″ per year, and will serve as a vertical accent in the composition. Dwarf conifers are perfect for trough gardens, rock gardens, and also for outdoor railway layouts.

(***Update***: Each of the spruces grew less than 1″ this past year, and ‘Primo’ added only 1 1/2″ in height. All plants look great, although ‘Jana’ burned a bit at the top during a long stretch of hot weather—100°F heat index. 8/25/2020)

‘Primo’ could easily be mistaken for its cousin, Chamaecyparis, a well-loved genus which I often included in customers’ landscapes and in mine. This dwarf arborvitae has dense fans of tightly-packed foliage whorled around its stems—fabulous textural interest! ‘Primo’ was selected from a crop of seedlings at Iseli Nursery in 2004, and was released to the trade in 2017. Its foliage can take on deeper green to bronze tints in cold weather. When planted in the garden, this variety will grow to about 3′ tall and 1 1/2′ wide in 10 years.

A Holly Called ‘Jersey Jewel’

Down To Earth also had dwarf junipers, Cotoneaster, a ferny Chamaecyparis, and a holly with the cutest and tiniest round leaves. It was difficult narrowing down the choices to 3 plants. Hmmm…I might have to go back for that holly. (***Update***: A couple of months later, I did go back for that holly, Ilex crenata ‘Jersey Jewel’, when my visiting brother, Jeff, and I went for a drive in the mountains.)

The Cold Facts

All 3 dwarf evergreens are hardy to minus 30°F, or USDA zone 4. Because they will be kept above ground level, in the pot, their roots will not be insulated by surrounding garden soil. On an average winter night here in zone 7b (borderline 8a), however, the soil probably will freeze only an inch or two into the pot. I’m more concerned about summer heat in this area.

So, how, then, do spruces and firs survive way up in the frigid north? First, they evolved there, and their cellular chemistry has adapted to harsh conditions. Second, a blanket of snow and a layer of forest floor debris help protect plants’ roots, to a degree, even if air temperatures plummet to well below 0°. And those are the full-sized specimens, with roots that venture more deeply than the tiny evergreens I’ll be using in the pot.

Other Variables

Large pots in winter sunlight absorb more heat than small ones during the daytime, and release it to the atmosphere at night. And the more hours of sun, the better. You can see how a larger soil mass offers better protection from the cold than a smaller one. It takes more time for a greater volume of soil to release the warmth gathered during the daytime.

Consider, also, the color of the pot. Dark pots absorb more energy from the sun, sometimes making the difference between life and death for their inhabitants. In this case, I already have the blue pot, and it’s a light shade of blue at that. But later I’ll describe other tricks we can employ when dealing with harsh winter weather.

This container has survived many winters outdoors without cracking because it’s frost resistant. Still, there are no guarantees. For those pots that have great value to you, empty and clean them, and store them upside down in the shed or the garage.

Within reasonable limits, most of us in the U.S. can find something to grow in winter pots. Just look for the hardiest specimens you can find, and get some advice from an expert at your local garden center. If live plants are out of the question, consider berried stems, colorful twigs, cut greens, moss, pine cones, and other seasonal ornamentation for the decorative pots by the front door. Or you might choose to take the risk with live plants.

Low profile pottery, perfect for miniature gardens.

In Unusually Cold Conditions

Hardiness Zones

Each variety of tree, shrub, and perennial is assigned a winter hardiness zone. That zone represents the lowest temperatures it can tolerate when planted in the ground. It’s useful when labels include the range of tolerance, such as “USDA zones 4-7”.

Regions on the USDA plant hardiness zone map are divided in ten-degree increments. The additional “a” or “b” designation further narrows down each zone to slightly cooler or slightly warmer parts, respectively. So, zone 7b is 5° warmer in winter, on average, than zone 7a. The zone numbers increase as average winter temperatures increase from Canada to the southern U.S.

It’s not unusual in this area of North Carolina to see temperatures drop into single digits a few nights each winter. And, conversely, we sometimes have those glorious winters that rarely get below 25°! Normally, I recommend using plants for planters that are rated two zones hardier than the zone you’re living in. For example, a zone 5 Pieris japonica that should tolerate winter temperatures as low as -20° planted in the ground likely will survive a zone 7 winter (0° to 10°F) in a pot.

The Weather Report

The last weather report of the day will determine if anything needs to be done for the plants outside. I’ll probably move the miniature garden to the warmer back deck, which is protected by a fence. That’s where plants, including edibles in pots, will get the most hours of direct sun.

The corner between the shed and the back wall provides a cozy microclimate. And, if needed, I can move the miniature garden into the shed or indoors for the night. But I’d rather not; it’s rather heavy.

Cold Frames

Let’s say you live in the cold northern states, but you want to pot up a miniature conifer garden. You’ll need to provide some protection when temperatures drop so low that the plants are at risk. Here are a few suggestions for those areas where these conditions last for months.

Move the pot into a sunken cold frame, or one that is lightly heated by a heat mat or heat cables. Heeling (burying) the pot into the soil, inside the cold frame, will give more protection by insulating the root system. Or you could pile mulch around the pot up to the rim.

Where winter conditions are cold but not severe, heeling in the pot next to a south-facing wall might be all the protection required. Or move it to a covered sunny porch against the wall of the house. Avoid placing it where ice or snow from the roof might fall on the plants. Watch out for animals that like to dig. Surround the planting with deer netting or a wire barrier (chicken wire, hardware cloth) to prevent damage.

The cold side of a heated greenhouse, an unheated lean-to, a minimally heated sunroom, or a sunny garage window might work during the frigid winter months. The plants will need direct sun even though they’re dormant in winter, but keep them very cool. And don’t forget to water! When cold, the miniature garden will dry very slowly, but it still needs to be checked.

If it’s too warm, the plants will beak dormancy prematurely. But, without adequate sun, that new growth will be weak.

Here’s A Bright Idea

Another option is to surround the pot and soil with a string of indoor/outdoor miniature incandescent lights. Enclosing the whole thing, or just the pot, in plastic at night creates a “lightly” heated bubble of protection.

I’ll use this simplified version of a cold frame during periods of severe cold, meaning temperatures in single digits at night. But I probably won’t wait for the temperature to drop that low. These varieties are new to me, and I don’t want to lose them.

Setting up the cold frame in autumn.

In the Maryland back yard, I assembled the cold frame (photo, right) every autumn. Succulents, geraniums, cyclamen, and other plants that tolerated cool temperatures, but not frost, spent the winters there. Edible cool season greens grew continuously under cover. And all received abundant sunlight in the back yard, on the south side of the house.

Cinderblocks and boards supported sheets of durable twinwall polycarbonate above the patio. Extra bricks on the north side (above cinder blocks) helped slope the cold frame toward the south for drainage and a better orientation toward winter sun. I used clear 4-mil plastic to cover the entire frame, sealing up the sides. And I weighed it down so it wouldn’t blow away.

The purpose of the strings of Christmas lights is to give gentle warmth, not light. So, use incandescent lights, not LED’s. The number of strings used in the cold frame varied with outdoor temperatures and with the amount of warmth needed for a particular group of plants. A string of 100 mini lights provides about the same warmth as a 40-watt light bulb.

Keeping Their Cool

These evergreens grow best when exposed to natural seasonal variations. But because the roots are above ground, they are more limited in what they can tolerate.

In any case, don’t keep hardy plants on display indoors or enclosed under plastic any longer than necessary. They might break dormancy, and could suffer cold damage when exposed to normal temperatures again. Open or remove the plastic covering every morning, before the sun heats the space.

Headings

Page 1: Down To Earth Garden Center, and Planting a Miniature Garden, The Newest Project (Fairy Gardens, Tropicals For a Miniature Garden, Little Evergreens For the Miniature Garden (Picea and Thuja, A Holly Called ‘Jersey Jewel’), The Cold Facts (Other Variables), and In Unusually Cold Conditions (Hardiness Zones, The Weather Report, Cold Frames, Here’s a Bright Idea, Keeping Their Cool)

Page 2: Tips for Potting Up the Miniature Garden (Double Potting), Plants For the Miniature Garden (Bloomers, Hardy Plants, Moss, Pruning), The Blue Pot, The Off-Centerpiece, More Plants For the Miniature Garden (Let’s Start Planting), The Little Fillers For the Miniature Garden (Acorus, Carex, and Ophiopogon, Eleocharis, A Welcome Weed and Viola), and The Small Stuff

Return to the top

Pages: 1 2

Tips For Planting a Wire Hanging Basket

May18

2019

Tips For Planting a Wire Hanging Basket

hanging basket, zinnia, calibrachoa, yellow, purple

The 16″ wire hanging basket with purple calibrachoa, yellow and white zinnias, and yellow mecardonia.

Now that the weather has settled, it’s time to plant the hanging basket. Okay, it’s 43°F in Helena, Montana, so you’ll have to wait a while. But here in Charlotte, it’s already 90°. We’ve had beautiful spring weather for weeks now, and gardens all over town are showing new life.

It is confirmed once again that I could never move back to a colder winter climate. Picking tomatoes here in early June is commonplace rather than a rarity. In the past, I’ve lived where a ripe tomato for a Fourth of July barbecue won neighborhood kudos! It’s not the summer heat I look forward to but rather the longer growing season and greens that grow through the winter.

I bought several pots of annuals two weeks ago but haven’t planted them. The plan is to refresh the wire hanging basket, and to fill the front beds with color. Complicating matters, though, is when the new siding will be installed. Our building has been rescheduled to a much earlier date, so no gardening will take place until the work has been completed.

A Few Preliminaries

Can I Reuse Old Potting Soil In the New Hanging Basket?

The hanging basket that held blooming violas and a few perennials over the winter will be emptied. The old soil, which still has value in the garden, will be dug into one of the flower beds. Organic components (peat moss and fine pine bark, primarily) break down, enriching the soil.

Used potting soil can be broken up and thrown under the shrubs or topdressed in a thin layer on the lawn. More options include adding it to the compost pile and using it in the backfill when planting trees and shrubs. I never throw away old potting soil, and, of course, I’ll save the perennials. But for new hanging baskets, use fresh potting soil for the best results.

Soil in large planters can be used again if it still has good tilth and hasn’t been waterlogged. It’s good idea, however, to replace the top third of soil. If diseased plants grew in it, I would discard the soil.

Refresh/Reuse

If the metal frame looks a bit tattered, now is the time to clean and dry it. Buy a can of spray paint, in the color of your choice, and freshen it up. Look for one that will stick to the finish on the frame. Some are metal; others are vinyl-covered metal.

Maybe your mother the artist has some ideas about color. Jazz it up a little in a shady spot, or color-coordinate the paint color with the flower colors. If you prefer classic black or bright white, those are fine, too. By the way, wire hanging baskets are also called “English Garden” baskets.

For a frame that looks only a little scuffed, try using a solution of horticultural oil (more concentrated than you would use for insects) wiped over the frame. I’ve used the oil to freshen used plastic pots, which often looked like new again. Be careful—horticultural oil makes surfaces slippery.

Line the Liner

Wire baskets are available with reinforced green sheet moss, but more often with a coconut fiber liner. I’ve used both, and have found the coco liners to be more durable, although I prefer the color of the moss.

If you need a new liner, garden centers stock both pre-formed liners and bulk rolls that can be cut to the length desired. Before shopping, measure the curve of your hanging basket, adding a bit extra, for a proper fit.

A Simple Trick

Here’s a trick I’ve used for many years: line the inside of the coco liner with a sheet of plastic. Reuse an empty mulch or potting soil bag, cut so it extends above the rim. The excess will be trimmed after planting. Now, punch several holes around the bottom third of the plastic to allow for drainage. In hot or dry climates, consider leaving the bottom 1″ to 1 1/2″ of the plastic intact. The soil and plants will absorb water that collects in the reservoir.

Coconut: source of coir for potting soils and coco liners for baskets.

This offers a few advantages. First, the plastic prevents soil contact with the coco fiber, delaying decomposition. A thick liner, made from coconut husks, will last an additional year or two.

Second, plastic prevents rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil. Plastic stops the hot dry wind from reaching the soil.

Third, plastic slows down infiltration of icy cold wind, delaying chilling of the soil in winter combinations.

And, fourth, soil won’t be lost through the thin, loosely woven spots in the liner. See if you can double up on the coco liner in those spots. And face the dark side of the plastic, if there is one, outward. This is less conspicuous than a bright yellow beacon peering out from the between the fibers.

Other Options

Perhaps you have other materials hanging around the shed that can substitute for a coco liner. A few layers of burlap, landscape fabric, an old blanket, or that unused fiber grow pot could work for this growing season. Still, I would line it with a plastic sheet for the reasons stated above.

A repurposed grow pot, now used as a liner for the hanging basket.

Where To Place the Hanging Basket

Notice how weight is distributed along the vertical part on the left, pushing bracket against the wall.

Have you decided where the shepherd’s hook will be placed? Have you already installed a sturdy bracket on the fence or deck post? Well-constructed wrought iron is costly, but it lasts a long time. Look for the thicker, heavier hooks and brackets. Visit the hardware store for special anchors and instructions if attaching the bracket to a brick surface.

Make sure the bracket or the hook is large enough to accommodate your hanging basket. This isn’t a concern with smaller baskets but is often overlooked for the large ones. Hardware is available in different sizes, so measure first, or you might find that the large hanging basket you want to use won’t fit onto the shepherd’s hook you already have.

Sometimes it’s hard to determine whether the vertical part of the bracket should be placed above or below the horizontal part. Securing the vertical side below the horizontal arm, as in the image above, helps direct the force against the wall. The bracket is less likely to pull away from the wall or post.

Sun Or Shade?

Pay close attention to the number of hours of direct sunlight the chosen location will receive. As the sun changes its path across the sky from one month to the next, the amount of sunlight will vary. A location near the front door might get lots of sun in April but could be in almost full shade once the trees leaf out.

Don’t expect a blazing burst of color from plants that need 7 or 8 hours of sun if you place the hanging basket under the semi-shady deck. Plant tags often erroneously indicate “partial sun/full sun” for plants that really need full sun. Partial sun to us gardeners, by the way, is 4 hours of sun.

Ask salespeople at the garden center for advice about light requirements. Petunia, verbena, calibrachoa, lantana, zinnia, and scaevola need full sun. Lobelia, bacopa, browallia, torenia, and some of the begonias will do well in morning sun and bright afternoon shade in this hot climate. Caladium, anthurium, ‘Non-Stop’ tuberous begonias, ferns, and foliage plants can take various levels of shade.

Choosing Plants For Your Hanging Basket

Plants have upright, mounding, or trailing habits. For smaller baskets, perhaps only mounding and trailing plants will fit. If single-variety monoculture is your preference (for example, a 12″ pot of purple Wave petunias or a 10″ pot of sky blue lobelias), go for it.

Geranium flower.

If you want a pot of zonal geraniums, avoid hanging it so high that all you see is the bottoms of the leaves and the pot. Place it with the flowers at eye level or enhance it with some trailing vinca vine and a few mounding white or yellow calibrachoas. Adding a trailing element creates greater interest.

Stately Salvia ‘Black and Bloom’ attracts hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees.

The 16″ wire hanging basket, for the shepherd’s hook in the front garden, can hold 6 to 10 plants. A large perennial Salvia ‘Black and Bloom’ (photo, right; hummingbirds visit every morning!) grows in the bed behind the basket, next to a yellow-tipped arborvitae.

So, the color scheme will include blue ‘Laguna’ (heat-tolerant) Lobelia, purple calibrachoa (million bells, a small cousin of petunia), little yellow Mecardonia, and a few golden yellow and white (powdery mildew resistant) Zinnia angustifolia.

A Heuchera with orange-ish foliage might remain in the pot, if the color plays nicely with others. (A passionflower I had bought earlier in Hendersonville survived the summer in a tiny 2″ pot.)

I use this color combination in the fall, sometimes, when planting violas. It borrows from both the warm and the cool color palettes. When in doubt, combine colors next to each other on the color wheel (for example, red-orange-yellow [warm colors], or pink-blue-purple [cool colors]) or opposite each other (red-green, blue-orange, purple-yellow). Adding white calms everything down when using several colors.

(***Update***: While the annuals awaited completion of the siding installation, a few of them perished. It happens. I plugged the survivors into the basket and fertilized them. Six weeks later, you can see how nicely it filled out. That’s the basket, at the top of this article. And I planted the passionflower, a vigorous vine, in the garden for the gulf fritillary butterflies. Autumn, 2019.)

Zinnia angustifolia ‘Star’ series, disease resistant.

Consider These Color Combinations:

red-white
yellow-white. These first two options make clean, crisp combinations.
chartreuse, green, orange, and white look good together
shades of yellow-orange-cream
blue-yellow-white
red-white-yellow
silver or gray and shades of pink
purple-blue-silver-pink-white
lavender-purple-white
warm maroon-peach-coral-cream-sky blue

Generally, I avoid using gray/silver with pale yellow. Orange and pink together don’t do anything for me.

We tend to gravitate toward our favorite colors, so try adding varieties you haven’t tried before. See if you can introduce foliage color (caladium, coleus, lysimachia, heuchera, sweet potato vine, begonia) that echoes the color of a flower.

A contrast between flower and foliage forms might also bring greater interest. Adding fine foliage or delicate flowers (nierembergia, diascia, bacopa, lobelia, alyssum, euphorbia ‘Diamond Frost’, mondo grass) contrasts effectively with bolder textures.

Headings

Page 1: Tips For Planting a Wire Hanging Basket, A Few Preliminaries (Can I Reuse Old Potting Soil In the New Hanging Basket?, Refresh/Reuse, Line the Liner), Where To Place the Hanging Basket (Sun Or Shade?), and Choosing Plants For Your Hanging Basket (Consider These Color Combinations)

Page 2: Ready to Start?, Time To Play In the “Dirt”, Timed-Release Fertilizer, and Maintaining the Hanging Basket (Water, Soluble Fertilizer, Deadheading, New Varieties, Pruning Your Hanging Basket, Insects and Spider Mites, Slugs, Deer!)

Return to the top

Pages: 1 2

Grow a Potted Tomato: A Step-By-Step Guide

Apr8

How To Grow a Potted Tomato

Young tomato plants.

This year’s plan is to grow two potted tomato plants on the deck, inside the fence and away from deer. But less than a week ago, it snowed! For the near future, we’ll be having temperatures in the 70’s F, and in the 50’s at night. It’s time!

Judging by the numbers of people shopping at the garden centers, I’m not the only optimist out there. Always check your local forecast to see if it’s safe to plant tender edibles. Our friends in the North are still shoveling snow. Sorry, guys. Here are today’s purchases, and the step-by-step guide on page 2.

Tomatoes

Warm temperatures turn thoughts to tomato plants, so off to the garden center I went. Since we rarely buy tomatoes from the grocery store in the winter, we’ve been looking forward to this moment.

In one of the pots, I’ll include a young flat-leaf parsley and a sweet basil I bought at the grocery store a few weeks ago. The two herbs will be planted on the south side of the heirloom ‘Rutgers’ tomato, so they won’t be shaded. I’ll remove tomato leaves that interfere with the herbs. In case raccoons and squirrels set their sights on a lovely ripe fruit, bird netting wrapped around the fruiting plants will deter them.

Unfortunately, direct sunlight is decreasing in the vegetable garden, next to the house, as the trees to the south grow larger. Even so, the new ‘Sun Gold’ cherry tomato will go into the garden; if any tomato will produce a crop, ‘Sun Gold’ will. Besides, it did well enough last year. It produces loads of bright orange super sweet tomatoes, great for salads and snacking. Bet you can’t eat just one!

Basil

‘Tuscany’ basil.

The garden center also had ‘Tuscany’ basil, a light green lettuce-leaf type, with huge puckered leaves. It is wonderfully sweet and lightly spicy, with a hint of fresh anise flavor. ‘Genovese’ and lettuce-leaf basil are among my favorites for Tomato-Basil Salad.

And I added to the cart a pot of ‘Siam Queen’ Thai basil, for the baked salmon. Basil needs warmer temperatures, so they’ll stay in pots for a while, and come inside at night. Potted basil will come indoors even in summer, during rainy or humid weather. That’s when Basil downy mildew becomes a problem.

Curly parsley, a rogue seedling with last year’s flat-leaf parsley, and arugula survived the winter and still look good enough to hold onto for a while. The enclosed deck is a warmer microclimate, where winter temperatures are always higher than on the other side of the fence.

Although there’s some potting soil around, I’ll need more to fill those large pots and a few others. So, I bought the largest bag of soil the garden center carries. There’s enough packaged fertilizer left over from last year.

Caterpillars, Anyone?

I always keep a supply of Bt for battling the caterpillar invasions. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is an organic alternative to substances I’d rather not consume, yet many people still consider it a “chemical”. It is not. Bt is a naturally occurring bacterium. An occasional spraying with Bt on the cole crops (kale, broccoli, cabbage, etc.) and on parsley and dill will save them from utter destruction!

The tobacco hornworm on a tomato leaf.

Sometimes, 1 or 2 tobacco hornworms attack our tomato plants. They look very similar to the tomato hornworm, which has V-shaped markings instead of the tobacco hornworm’s slashes (photo, above). They’re difficult to see because they blend so well with the foliage.

Left undisturbed, these larvae will develop into a type of hawk moth. But this very hungry caterpillar, as it grows, consumes large quantities of leaves, and leaves behind…well, you know what it leaves behind.

This nature nerd, as a young student, kept a tiny caterpillar indoors, and supplied daily rations of tomato leaves. Well, it grew enormous and wandered off to a secluded spot to pupate. My greatest fear was that my mother would find it. I finally found it, and donated it to a teacher’s Wardian case.

Spraying with Bt kills these hidden caterpillars if you can’t find them. It is more effective, however, when used on young caterpillars. But, if they have little things on their skin that look like grains of rice (photo, above), just pluck off the caterpillars and place them in the shrubs. A small female parasitic wasp laid eggs on or in the caterpillar, and the wasp larvae fed on and will soon kill the caterpillars. The “rice” grains are pupating wasps. And some little animal might appreciate a morsel such as this.

Big Pots

I bought two 7′ tall stakes and two 20″ diameter lime green pots, at first considered somewhat disagreeable, but now perfectly acceptable. This shade of green blends in with the greens and browns on the deck. When summer heat is a problem, light colors reflect some of the hot sun bearing down on the pots. This helps moderate soil temperature, which rises in a dark pot. Conversely, in the winter, black pots absorb warmth, keeping hardy herbs and cool season greens happy.

Discounted prices on vegetable transplants accomplished their intended effect: I bought more than I had planned. So, now there are 2 sweet peppers to plant, one a “green-to-red-when-ripe” bell, and the other a ‘Lunchbox’ orange.

Peppers

‘Lunchbox’ sweet peppers.

‘Lunchbox’ peppers are small and colorful (red, orange, or yellow—a separate color on each plant). I add them to omelets, salads, stir-fries, shrimp and vegetables with rice, and pizza.

They add great color accents as well as a higher vitamin C content than green peppers. In fact, one medium-large ripe lunchbox pepper has 100% of the RDA for Vitamin C.

It takes almost 3 weeks longer for a pepper to mature from the green stage to the colorful one. Normally, I would have waited a week or two for the pepper plants, but they were on sale…and it has been quite mild…

(“Weather Alert: severe thunderstorm watch, possible large hail, winds gusting to 60 miles per hour”. Time to move some things around outside.)

One More Tomato

The heirloom ‘Black Prince’ tomato is not as susceptible to cracking as some of the other black tomatoes. And the fruits are smaller. This one substitutes for the ‘Black Krim’ I was looking for.

If ‘Black Prince’ doesn’t do well enough, I’ll pull it out and plant something else. That’s one of the many advantages of living where the growing season is long. (***Update***: The ‘Black Prince’ has grown taller than the 7′ stake, and it is loaded with medium-sized fruits! I’ve already picked more than 20 richly flavored “black” tomatoes. Photo at end of Page 2. June 25, 2019)

And Zucchini

Zucchini with fruits.

The fourth of the four-for-$10 deal is a zucchini called ‘Black Beauty’. The seedlings have barely grown beyond the seed leaf stage, and they, with the basil, come indoors at night.

A 50-pound bag of aged cow manure rounded out the purchase.

I’ll plant the zucchini into a nursery pot, and later into the garden. But for now, the garden is still packed with cool season vegetables and greens.

Headings

Page 1: How To Grow a Potted Tomato, Tomatoes, Basil, Caterpillars, Anyone?, Big Pots (Peppers, One More Tomato, And Zucchini)

Page 2: A Step-By-Step Guide To Planting a Potted Tomato, Maintaining Your Potted Tomato, Temperature, Watering a Potted Tomato, Fertilizing a Potted Tomato, (How Often?, Blossom End Rot), Limiting the Suckers On Your Potted Tomato

Return to the top

Pages: 1 2

Create a Porch Planter Made for Shade

Jun22

2018

A Shady Porch Planter

It is hot outside! This week’s temperatures are soaring well above normal. Throw in the (dis)comfort level, and it feels like it’s over 100 degrees out there! I refreshed the bird bath a few minutes ago. Three cardinals and a Carolina wren less than 15 feet away waited for me to leave.

We haven’t had rain for…well, the grass already is brown, and the trees’ leaves are beginning to flag…

We retreat to air-conditioned spaces, emerging in the evening to collect mail, pull some weeds, or feed the birds. A welcoming porch offers shade and a tall pitcher of iced tea shared with a friend. But, for a gardener like me, something is missing from this setting. That something would be plants!

Although a shady porch planter won’t support the blaze of color we see in our flower gardens, there are lots of plants that will grow there. Here in the Carolinas, a 12″ hanging basket filled with a well-tended Boston fern is a classic. It will require daily watering and fertilizing every 2 or 3 weeks. During cooler weather, in spring and fall, it will take some direct sunlight. Sitting on Grandma’s antique fern stand or hanging between posts, the Boston fern is beautiful in its simplicity. There’s something “cool” in that lush greenery, a calm repose…

But If It Goes Too Dry…

If the soil dries, there will be hundreds of little reminders shed from the older fronds. I’m talking about the pinnae, the small leaflets that line the midrib of the fern frond. Pull up the foliage and snip, down to soil level, the older, yellowing fronds. A certain amount of this shedding is expected, due to heavy shade on the lower fronds.

Soil that runs too dry will result in accelerated loss of foliage. And the edges of tender new fronds will turn crispy brown. I’ve seen ferns that looked dead from lack of water. But with a severe trim, down to soil level, and improved watering practices, the plants can recover. In a week or so, you’ll notice new growth emerging from the crown of the plant if the root system hasn’t been entirely killed off.

Plastic hanging baskets often have a 1″ deep reservoir in the bottom of the pot. Water your fern heavily enough to fill the reservoir. The plant will soon soak up that excess, so usually there is no need to empty it. I don’t recommend this for all plants, however–just the thirsty ones.

Under a porch that gets some direct sun, look for a fern variety called ‘Kimberly Queen’. Its habit is more upright, so it looks best sitting on the porch or on a low plant stand. Where conditions are too sunny for a Boston fern, ‘Kimberly Queen’ should do well.

Following the Path of Least Resistance

One note about all potted plants: if water gushes out the holes immediately after watering, there’s empty space between the outside of the root ball and the inside of the pot. This space will need to be filled with potting soil, using a tool of some sort. Firm the soil all around, filling in the gaps, or the water will find that one air channel that remains unfilled. This will cause some or much of the root system to remain dry.

Why this happens:

letting the soil go too dry, causing the soil mass to shrink.
bumpy transportation, shifting loose soil around the pot, causing air pockets to form.
heavy roots or fern rhizomes (underground stems) growing along the sides of the root ball or coiled around the bottom of the pot (Bear’s-foot fern rhizomes, or the massive root systems of asparagus fern and spider plant). Strong roots can raise the whole plant higher in the pot. Most pots taper (become narrower) toward the bottom of the pot, so a gap will open as the root ball rises up.
loosely-packed soil. Firm the soil–not too hard and not too soft. Avoid piling new soil on top of the root ball. You might have to remove the plant in order to add soil under the root ball.

Ferns and Friends—Made for Shade

I love ferns. A combination of different species planted together in a rustic planter, an aged clay pot, or a hollowed-out birch log speaks to my appreciation of the Permian aesthetic. Add a piece of driftwood, live moss, and some rocks collected from who-knows-where, and you’ve got a simple prehistoric scene straight out of Jurassic Park. Maybe you could borrow one of the kids’ toy dinosaurs…

Miniature garden in a cracked birdbath.

Another “pot” that makes a cool miniature garden is a leaky birdbath. I turned a cracked granite birdbath into a tiny campsite, complete with shelter, a forest of prostrate rosemary, a firepit, and pebble pathways between clipped thyme plants (photo, right). Irish and Scottish mosses (Sagina subulata) served as the “lawn”, with driftwood logs for seating. (This one grew in direct sun most of the day.)

Look around; there might be something in the basement, at Good Will, or at a Habitat for Humanity Restore that can be transformed into something special.

Keep the fern arrangement in the shade. Two hours of direct sunlight on a hot summer day might prove fatal to these delicate denizens of the underbrush. And even though ferns like moist conditions, planting them in pots without drainage holes can result in a smelly anaerobic bog, suffocating their roots.

Avoid placing your porch planter in a windy location; ferns prefer the humidity and stillness of calm, close quarters.

So Many Choices

There are many ferns to choose from:

maidenhair ferns (Adiantum),
variegated brake ferns (Pteris),
lemon button fern and dwarf Boston ferns (Nephrolepis),
rabbit’s-foot fern (Davallia), with its fuzzy rhizomes,
the less fern-like bird’s nest fern (Asplenium) and Hart’s tongue fern (Phyllitis, a perennial),
fern allies, such as Selaginella, available in several colors and forms.

Among their numerous cultivars are smaller specimens, growing up to 12″ or 14″ tall, easily accommodated indoors when autumn approaches. Indoors, give them cool morning sun or very bright indirect light. I don’t recommend “low light” for anything, not even ferns. Stronger light makes stronger tissues, which will better tolerate indoor conditions.

: Cinnamon gold color on new fronds of Dryopteris ‘Golden Mist’. This is a hardy perennial.

: Brake fern (Pteris cretica).

: The crocodile fern (Microsorium musifolium ‘Crocydyllus’).

: Maidenhair fern (Adiantum sp.).

: Bird’s nest fern (Asplenium nidus).

: Lemon button fern (Nephrolepis var.)

Small Scale Gardening In a Porch Planter

With the popularity of miniature gardens, or fairy gardens, tiny 2″ pots of young plants are popping up all over the gardening world. You can find young ferns in a wide variety of foliage colors and textures.

Garden centers also sell assortments of succulents, flowering plants, houseplants, and terrarium plants, but not all are suitable for a shady porch planter or indirect light indoors. And get some information on the growth habits of the plants. Different varieties of ferns might grow only 2″ tall or over 4 feet tall! I grew the little 2″ fern 30 years ago; it was called New Zealand something…I’ll have to see if I can find it again. So cute!

For many years, I grew tiny plants under lights, including miniature strawberry begonia (Saxifraga cuscutaeformis), miniature African violets and their 1″ tall cousin Sinningia pusilla. And there was Sonerila, Pilea species, and dwarf Peperomia, many of which are available from specialty growers. There are miniature philodendrons, and I once had a dwarf Caladium that grew only 5″ or 6″ tall.

These little plants can be tucked in at the base of a hollowed “tree stump”, emerging from a patch of emerald green moss, or planted next to a “boulder”. Go ahead; make a scene! A tiny slice of the natural world…as mesmerizing as a well-appointed aquarium… … …

Little Plants for Sun

Some of my customers in Maryland were serious small-scale train enthusiasts. They looked for little plants to spruce up their outdoor displays. I turned twiggy forms of French thyme, Japanese maples, dwarf rosemary ‘Blue Boy’, and Juniper seedlings into bonsai. Their natural forms fit right into the smaller dimensions of their gardens. Miniature purple basil was trained into a tiny topiary, for one season.

And then there are the miniature evergreens, of course. That’s another post. But you get the idea. Check out all the departments in well-stocked garden centers; there are all sorts of small-scale plants that can be used in porch planters.

Miniature garden with dwarf evergreens.

Return to the top

Headings

Page 1: A Shady Porch Planter, But If It Goes Too Dry…, Following the Path of Least Resistance, Ferns and Friends—Made for Shade (So Many Choices), and Small Scale Gardening In a Porch Planter (Little Plants for Sun)

Page 2: Perennials for Your Shady Porch Planter (Some Possibilities), Color For a Porch Planter, Getting the Whole Picture, Year-Round Gardening In a Porch Planter (Warm Weather, Cool Weather, Evergreens), and Ready-Made or DIY Porch Planter?

Pages: 1 2

Vegetables in Containers: How To Grow Them

Jun17

2018

Updated 10/16/2024

No Garden Space? No Problem!

Growing Vegetables in Containers

Peppers and onions.

Before I started this blog, I managed the Edibles Department for a few years at an independent garden center in Charlotte, North Carolina. As some of our customers downsized to apartment living or to a condo with a balcony, they didn’t want to give up growing their own herbs and vegetables. So, they were glad to hear that they could grow vegetables in containers…as long as the balcony was on the right side of the building. And the right side for vegetables is the sunny side of the building.

Lack of direct sunlight and adequate growing space are limiting factors. Look around, though, and you might come up with some ideas. For example, some of our customers were given permission from their condo associations to garden in common areas. Running for open association board positions yourselves is one way to garner support. I encourage you to attend board meetings, bringing your neighbors, a plan, and a promise to maintain the site.

Neighborhood community gardens are another possibility, although there often is a waiting list. With so much emphasis on eating healthy foods, little pocket parks and community gardens are popping up all over the country.

For Your Convenience

A young tomato damaged by a squirrel.

Another reason to grow vegetables in containers is simply to have them close at hand when they’re needed. A few steps out the kitchen door to a handful of cherry tomatoes and a ripe ‘Flavorburst’ sweet pepper for today’s salad has its charms.

Keeping the pots elevated on the deck prevents some animals, such as deer and rabbits, from making off with the fruits of your labor. Won’t stop the raccoons, though. (***Update***: Or the squirrels; one thought this little green tomato had something to offer. Discard any fruits that have been chewed on by animals. If needed, I’ll wrap the potted tomato plants, growing on the deck, in bird netting. June, 2019.)

Sun? Not So Much

The choices for edibles in a shady spot are limited. The ones that might succeed in bright shade are arugula, cilantro, parsley, lemon balm (interesting research with Alzheimer’s), French sorrel, and seasonal leafy greens. With just a bit more sun, basil, rosemary, oregano, and maybe a cucumber plant could grow for you.

Reflected light counts, to a degree, including light bouncing off light-colored walls. And a white surface under the pots reflects more light onto the vegetables in containers.

Remember to monitor the sun’s path throughout the seasons. Once trees drop their leaves in the fall, your balcony or patio might receive more direct sunlight than it did in the summer. This opens up all kinds of possibilities for potted cool-season greens and vegetables. Pay close attention to expected temperature changes for the duration of your crops.

Fruiting plants, such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and squash need at least 6, and preferably 7 or 8 hours of direct sun. These vegetables also need warm summery weather.

Approaching Summer Solstice

Our vegetable garden is now receiving the maximum amount of light, with the sun directly overhead. In the springtime of the last two years, heavy rains caused the tree canopy up on the berm, to the south, to swell with heavy, overhanging branches. Trees now cast considerable shade early and late in the day for most of the growing season. So, I planted fewer tomato plants and more greens.

Two large ‘Big Beef’ tomatoes are beginning to ripen, and a whole lot of ‘Sun Gold’ and ‘Mexico Midget’ cherry tomatoes. So, even with less-than-ideal conditions, there will be something to harvest.

At Julia’s Request

Several family members from New Jersey and California recently visited us in North Carolina. I promised Julia this article about growing summer vegetables in containers.

Vegetables In Containers: Which Ones?

: Potted green onions.

: Potted tomato.

Sweet and hot peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants can be grown in containers, as well as zucchini, yellow summer and Patty Pan squashes, cucumbers, and green beans. Also, it’s easy to grow most herbs in pots. Green onions, carrots, potatoes, and peas can grow in pots!

It’s just a matter of the details. One of those details is to look for dwarf or bush varieties of the crops you want to grow. There’s even a variety of corn (‘On Deck’) that grows in large pots.

One of the popular combinations I used to sell included a sweet or a hot pepper planted with two herbs. Theme combinations (‘Jalapeño’ pepper/cilantro/Greek oregano; ‘Carmen’ frying pepper/Italian parsley/Italian oregano) grew in 14″ pots. Customers found them irresistible if they were bearing fruit.

Growing more varieties of leafy greens in containers has become a priority as our garden becomes more shaded. In addition, greens can grow all year in regions with moderate winters.

Starting With Tomatoes

Much of the information in “Starting With Tomatoes” also applies to other vegetables in containers.

Potted ‘Indigo Blue Berries’ cherry tomato ripens to orange and black.

Beginning with America’s favorite, tomatoes grow well in pots. Will it be a beefsteak or a cherry? An heirloom or a modern hybrid? A slicer or a sauce-type? Determinate? Indeterminate (it keeps growing until frost, bearing fruit all summer)? Black, red, yellow, or orange? Striped or solid? There are many thousands of varieties of tomatoes to choose from!

‘Terenzo’ tomato.

A dwarf tomato called ‘Terenzo’ (photo, right) can grow in a 10″ hanging basket, but a ‘Cherokee Purple’ heirloom or a ‘Big Beef’ needs something considerably larger. For the large varieties, I use pots at least 20″ in diameter.

The long-vining indeterminate cherry types (‘Sun Gold’, ‘Black Cherry’, ‘Mexico Midget’) can grow in a pot as small as 14″ in diameter, but they’d be happier in bigger pots. You’ll need to pay closer attention to water and fertility when using smaller pots.

Vegetables In Containers: Types Of Pots

Each kind of pot has both advantages and disadvantages.

Summer vegetables generally fare better in larger pots rather than smaller pots. Although the pot looks enormous compared to the transplant’s diminutive size, don’t be tempted to plant more than one tomato per pot.

You’ll be amazed how quickly that one tomato plant fills a 20″ pot. A new transplant in a large pot runs a greater risk of root rot during rainy weather. But, placing it under an overhang will prevent this loss. It’ll be different once more roots and foliage have grown.

An indeterminate tomato, such as ‘Cherokee Purple’, ‘Sun Gold’, or ‘Black Krim’, can share a 20″ diameter pot (photo, below) with a couple of herbs, such as parsley and oregano. Plant the tomato toward the back of the pot, on the north side (northern hemisphere), and plant the herbs near the southern rim.

Terra Cotta

Terra cotta looks good and has some weight. But clay is porous, so water vapor passes through the pot to the air outside, quickly drying the soil. If you want to use your large clay pots, you could line them with food-grade plastic and punch some holes in the bottom for drainage. This will slow down the evaporation process.

Certainly, use clay pots if you prefer, but prepare to water more often.

Ceramic Pots

Ceramics are beautiful and heavy, and they can be expensive. Soil temperature rises uncomfortably on the sunny side unless the pot is shaded. Try using light colored pots in the summer, which will reflect most of the heat.

If you’re unsure of the safety of the glaze, line the inside of the pot with food-grade plastic bags, poking several holes in the bottom for drainage. Choose a different pot if a sticker on the bottom warns “Not for direct contact with food”.

You could also plant the tomato in a large nursery pot, and then insert it into the decorative glazed container. Make sure both pots have drainage holes. This “double-potting” allows air circulation around the interior pot and eliminates concerns about questionable glazes.

Tomato ‘Rutgers’, sweet basil, and Italian parsley in a 20″ wide pot, April, 2019.

Plastic and Vinyl

These pots are inexpensive, readily available, and easily moved. They’re also the most likely to blow over in windy weather. But this is the first choice for most gardeners. Most of these pots last a few to several years in the sun, but, eventually, sunlight will degrade the material.

Wood Containers

Untreated cedar or redwood and half whiskey barrels are suitable for growing vegetables in containers. Check to make sure the pots drain freely.

Reservoirs and Other Considerations

Earth boxes and plastic pots often have built-in reservoirs or detachable saucers. And you can purchase caster kits and trellises for increased functionality. Some gardeners have the option to move their plants from the morning sun on one side of the deck to the afternoon sun on the other side; wheels make this so much easier.

Caution: some of the reservoirs are too deep before the water begins to exit the overflow hole. This can cause young plants to rot if the soil stays sodden all the time. You could drill a hole in the side, below the overflow hole, reducing the capacity of the reservoir. Or simply tilt the pot to allow excess water to drain. Older plants, full of foliage, will absorb water in the bottom of the planter, as long as it isn’t raining for several days straight.

Mosquitoes and Tree Roots

Add a piece of Mosquito Dunks to prevent mosquitoes from maturing in the secluded reservoir. They need only a few days in warm weather to complete their life cycle. Or tip the container to drain all excess water.

A pot sitting directly on soil anywhere near trees or shrubs will invite their roots to invade. Believe me, they will try to grow in that beautiful composted soil. Elevate the pot off the ground. This also facilitates drainage from the pot.

A few pieces of broken flagstone or “pot feet” raise the pots above the surface of the deck, helping to preserve the deck’s finish.

Saucers

Use saucers under the pots, but don’t let water remain in them for more than an hour. Plant roots need oxygen as much as they need water. Water in the saucer prevents air from entering the bottom of the pot.

Saucers aren’t absolutely necessary, but help if the soil has gone too dry. Just keep filling them until no more water is absorbed by the soil. In tall pots, though, the force of gravity will prevail over capillary action, preventing water from reaching the top of the root ball. So, you’ll also need to water the top portion of soil.

During long periods of rainy weather, I remove the saucers, or turn them upside down and keep them under the containers. This is impractical, however, if the pot weighs 50 pounds. Consider removing the saucer and using a few pieces of broken flagstone or brick to elevate the pots, if necessary.

Potting Soil

Reused polyester fiberfill covers the drainage hole.

Before filling the pot, place a small handful of polyester fiberfill (from a hobby store) over the drainage hole. This prevents soil from eroding through the hole, and prevents earthworms and other critters from entering. If you pull some of it through the hole to a point at the bottom, excess water will continue to drain if there’s soil in the little cone. This is helpful for potted plants that rot easily during long stretches of rainy weather (succulents, lavender, thyme, sage). This synthetic material doesn’t rot, so it’s reusable.

Use a good quality potting soil that drains well, but has peat moss to hold moisture. In addition to the peat moss, the mixture will have perlite (white particles that help drainage), pine bark chips (drainage), lime (to adjust the pH), compost or a starter charge of fertilizer, and often a wetting agent (to help the soil absorb water).

Amending the Potting Soil

Feel free to experiment with mixtures of different materials. Soils with a lot of bark (pine fines, wood products) in the mix tend to dry out faster. You can mix in smaller-particle loamy topsoil, spongy peat moss, aged manure, or compost to help slow water loss. Water-absorbing crystals might help, too. But moisten them before you add them to the soil. If you don’t, you’ll understand why I italicized the word “before”.

Adding a layer of undyed mulch on top of the soil helps conserve water and keeps the soil a bit cooler.

While some gardeners add rocks to the bottom of the pot, I never do. It was thought the rocks increased drainage, but the opposite is true; they create a perched water table in the layer of soil right above the rocks. Water percolating through the soil profile is held in this layer by capillarity, and often rots roots trying to grow there, limiting the useful volume of soil.

Headings

Page 1: Growing Vegetables In Containers, Sun? Not So Much, Vegetables In Containers: Which Ones?, and Starting With Tomatoes (Vegetables In Containers: Types Of Pots, Reservoirs and Other Considerations, Mosquitoes and Tree Roots, Saucers, Potting Soil (Amending the Potting Soil)…

Page 2: Transplanting the Tomato, Water, Going Away?, Staking, Fertilizing Vegetables In Containers, Blossom End Rot, On PH, Pollination), Peppers and Eggplants, Cucumbers, Squash (Squash Vine Borers), Green Onions (Bunching Onions from Seed), Leafy Greens, and Picking Vegetables In Containers

Return to the top

Pages: 1 2

How To Grow Succulents To Perfection!

May23

Speaking Of Succulents

Earlier today, I gave a presentation on succulents at the annual meeting for the Charlotte (NC) Council of Garden Clubs. We spent a few hours at Southern Gourmet in Matthews, and, with their help, and someone else’s laptop, I was able to get through all the pictures. Thank you, CCGC, for the invitation.

Oscularia deltoides in bloom.

What Is A Succulent?

Succulents, by definition, are plants that store water in their leaves, stems, and roots. They evolved in arid regions (primarily in the Americas, Africa, and Australia), and can endure intense sunlight and prolonged drought and heat. By providing favorable conditions, we can grow colorful succulents in sunny windows. Over the past several years, they have been enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

Decades ago, I purchased young bare-root succulents from a California wholesaler for my horticultural business. Unwrapping each little parcel was like waking up on Christmas morning as a child. These were plants I’d never seen before—Titanopsis, Pleiospilos, Graptopetalum, Lapidaria—and were destined for sale at the Westover Flea Market when I lived in nearby Morgantown, West Virginia.

Although there are many species of hardy succulents in the Sedum and Sempervivum genera, this article addresses primarily the tender succulents, which require temperatures above freezing.

Plenty Of Light For Succulents

Haworthia cooperi, succulent with windowtip leaves.

Haworthia cooperi showing leaftip windows. Light refracts inside the leaf, even if the plant is almost buried in desert sand.

Adequate light is one of those conditions that must be met for these plants to show good color and characteristic form. Some succulents, such as Haworthia, Gasteria, Aloe, Epiphyllum, and Christmas cacti, grow well with at least 4 hours of direct sun, and very bright indirect light the rest of the day.

Crassula, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and Sedum appreciate even more light, at least 5 or 6 hours.

Cacti (succulents with spines or thorns), living stones, and Sempervivum (Hens and Chicks) need abundant sunshine, at least 6, but preferably 8, hours per day.

Direct sunlight keeps the plants colorful and compact. If the plants receive enough sunlight most of the time, they will tolerate the occasional stretch of cloudy weather without deteriorating.

Artificial light helps during the short days of winter or when the sun refuses to shine. When necessary, I use 2-tube 4′ long shop lights with “daylight” LED or fluorescent tubes. Be sure to place the plants within a few inches of the tubes for at least 16 hours per day.

When Light Is Insufficient

: Outgrowing the rosette. Both photos demonstrate internode stretch.

: Thin stem of Graptopetalum variety.

How do you know when your succulents are not receiving enough light? Plants that grow in the shape of a rosette start growing faster (photo above, left). The center leaves outgrow the outline of the plant, stretching toward the light. And the new part of the stem grows thinner. That happens when winter sunlight is scarce, as in this Graptopetalum pentandrum ‘Superbum’ (photo above, right).

In poor light, strong colors begin to pale, and purple, red, or orange highlights fade. New leaves become thinner. The internodes (stem segments between the nodes, where leaves are attached) on younger parts of the plant will lengthen (photos, above); this appearance is diagnostic for low light levels.

There’s a huge difference between “direct sunlight” and “bright indirect light”. A few hours of indirect light offers very little benefit to succulents; they need the strong sun. And, without adequate light, succulents are more susceptible to damage from overwatering.

More Sun For Cacti

: Bumble bee collecting nectar.

: Grafted cacti.

Cacti also suffer in inadequate sunlight. The spines on new growth grow farther apart.

In upright species, the stem becomes narrower relative to the older part that was growing in good sun. If you see that the top half of a cactus stem is thinner than the bottom half, and the spines are not as closely clustered, the plant is not getting as much sun as it was before. Solution? More sun!

The colorful tops of grafted cacti (photo, above right) lack chlorophyll, and depend on the green stock plant for sustenance. Also, the graft is more sensitive to harsh sun and should be placed in cooler morning sun.

Variability among cacti.

Light And Water

Light and water are inextricably linked in plants. When the sun doesn’t shine, photosynthesis, transpiration, and respiration slow down, and soil moisture sits unused around the root system. Play it safe and water succulents only on sunny mornings and when the forecast calls for sunny weather for the next couple of days.

Under normal conditions, allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. Although the soil feels dry on the surface, there’s usually some moisture in the lower half of the root ball.

Glass container with two open sides.

These plants never need misting. Water that sits on the foliage can initiate rot, so shake it off or use a towel to dry it. Never let succulents sit in a saucer of water.

Although glass terrariums are very popular, I do not recommend succulents for terrariums. Unless the glass container has large openings for heat to escape (photo, above), succulents in direct sun will fry in terrariums! They also rot in high humidity or if there’s the slightest amount of excess water in the soil.

Pots

Succulents and shallow bowls (Pike’s Nurseries, Matthews NC).

Succulents prefer to remain quite potbound, where roots are tightly packed in the pot. Plants in oversized pots are more likely to be damaged by overwatering simply because the greater soil volume holds more water for a longer period of time.

Shallow glazed containers, such as decorative bowls and ceramic bonsai trays, make delightful homes for succulent combinations (photo, below). Include rocks, gravel, and driftwood in these dish gardens to create a natural-looking scene from nature.

Small-growing succulents in a bonsai tray.

Tall glazed pots hold a reservoir of water that probably won’t be used by the plant. More appropriate for succulents, terra cotta (Italian for “baked earth”) pots are porous and help the soil dry faster when water vapor passes through the sides.

Repotting, if needed, should be done early in the growing season so a strong root system can develop before the days begin to shorten in autumn. Growth slows during those months. Always use pots that have drainage holes.

Potting Soil

Fenestraria species showing leaftip windows.

The soil used for succulents should be gritty for quick drainage. If needed, amend regular potting soil with perlite, coarse sand, horticultural grit, pine fines, charcoal, expanded rock, or PermaTill. “Cactus and Succulent” soil is available, although quality varies widely among brands.

When repotting, all new soil goes below and around the sides of the root ball, never on top of it. Planting too low in the soil results in rotten leaves and stems.

In their natural environment, certain succulents, such as Haworthia, Aloe, and Gasteria, have contractile roots. If blowing sand exposes the crown or the top of the root system, the roots are able to “pull” the plant lower into the soil. Amazing!

Living Stones

The ground-hugging living stones, or split-rock, succulents (photos, below) are extremely sensitive to overwatering. Use small clay pots and very gritty, gravelly soil. There should be only a very small percentage of organic matter in the soil.

These plants are well-camouflaged in their native southern Africa, almost indiscernible from the rocks around them. Some of the genera available for purchase include Lithops, Lapidaria, Gibbaeum, and Conophytum.

: Living stones.

: Flowers emerging from between the leaf pairs, left. New leaves “splitting” last year’s foliage, which will wither, right.

Fertilizer

Succulents grow slowly, so fertilize only 2 or 3 times during the growing season, from March through October.

Use products formulated for indoor houseplants, with small numbers on the package, such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Those three numbers represent the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus (phosphate), and potassium (potash) in the product. All products list these three primary macronutrients on the label in that order: N-P-K.

It’s better to underfertilize than to overfertilize, so use a more diluted rate than the recommendation on the label. For succulents, dilute it to half-strength.

Lithops and other living stones are extremely slow-growing, so they’re hardly ever fertilized. Use a very dilute higher phosphorus fertilizer only when the plant shows new growth.

Sempervivum (hens and chicks) can be tucked between rocks, and they’re hardy perennials.

Outdoors For The Summer

Light blue Echeveria in bloom.

Succulents summering outdoors benefit from higher light levels and often take on vibrant coloration. Jade plants (Crassula) develop red margins on their leaves in brighter sun, and Echeveria becomes even more colorful.

Monitor closely during periods of high heat. Above 85° F, provide light shade during the hot afternoon hours. Potted plants are more susceptible to stress from extreme conditions than those planted in the ground.

Transition your plants to outdoor conditions gradually. Give them just a couple of hours of early morning sun or dappled shade for the first few days. A plant that was growing indoors all winter will probably suffer sun scald if immediately placed outdoors in full sun. This hardening off process gives plant tissues time to toughen up so they can withstand more intense summer sun. Sunlight causes the cuticle, a protective waxy layer on the leaf surface, to thicken.

This beautiful variegated succulent, called Kalanchoe ‘Fantastic’, has a variably feathered band of cream between the pink edge and the greenish-gray base of the leaf (photo, below). I’ve had this plant for over a decade, and protect it from dropping temperatures in autumn by moving it indoors well before frost. Stronger sun and more stressful conditions might cause it to turn redder in color. It recovers, though, in less extreme conditions.

kalanchoe thyrsiflora, a succulent called "flap jack"

Kalanchoe thyrsiflora ‘Fantastic’, growing outdoors for the summer.

Protect your plants from excessive moisture. After receiving some rain, place the dampened succulents under cover. Check to make sure the drainage hole allows water to drain freely.

And Back Inside In Autumn

As autumn temperatures fall into the high 40’s at night, it’s time to bring your plants indoors for the winter. The more sensitive types, including Echeveria and Graptopetalum, come indoors before the thermometer drops below 55°. Prolonged exposure to cold, wet conditions will cause succulents to deteriorate, so check the forecast!

Pruning Succulents

Joyce Chen scissors.

If your plants are growing too large and cannot be accommodated in the space available, consider cutting them back. Stretched-out plants benefit from selective pruning in early summer. New growth will soon emerge.

Cacti can be temperamental, so be careful if you choose to lop off the tops. For cacti, this is best done in late spring/early summer for a full season of recuperation. Stronger light available in the summer causes the plant to respond with more compact growth. They might grow a few new stems below the cut.

During transpiration, water is “pulled” through the plant’s vascular system from the roots, to the stems, and then through the leaves and out to the atmosphere. This process is the primary manner in which moisture is removed from the soil. Therefore, avoid extensive pruning if any plant was recently watered. Because there’s less foliage on the plant after pruning, the soil stays moist for a longer period of time. Wait a few days, or until the soil is almost dry, before pruning.

Headings

Page 1: Speaking Of Succulents, What Is A Succulent?, Plenty Of Light For Succulents (When Light Is Insufficient), More Sun For Cacti, Light And Water, Pots, Potting Soil (Living Stones), Fertilizer, Outdoors For The Summer (And Back Inside In Autumn), Pruning Succulents

Page 2: Propagation Of Succulents (Rooting Cuttings, Stem Cuttings, Leaf Cuttings, Division, Seed), Root Rot And Insects (Root Or Stem Rot, Insects and Mites), Flowers, Time To Grow That Collection!

Return to the top

Pages: 1 2

Potted Peppers for Growing—in the Winter?

Autumn Has Arrived!

Have You Ever Considered Growing Potted Peppers?

Early Fruits Next Summer

Tip #1: Start with Healthy Transplants

Tip #2: Transplanting Potted Peppers

The Pots

The Potting Soil

The Process

The First Watering

Varieties of Potted Peppers I’m Growing This Year

Headings

How To Grow Plants In a Strawberry Jar

Planting Succulents In a Strawberry Jar

When It Gets Cold

The Tender Succulents

Planting Herbs In a Strawberry Jar

Which Herbs?

Other Plants For a Strawberry Jar

Headings

Herb Gardens: The Scents and Flavors of Summer

The Gift That Keeps On Giving

Choosing the Right Containers for Herb Gardens

Style and Size

Window Boxes

Cracking

Tuscan Style

Long Toms

Plain Pots

Topiary

Strawberry Pots

Pot Color

Choosing the Right Plants for Herb Gardens

A Proper Fit

Seeds and Transplants

What’s the Difference Between Herbs and Spices?

Headings:

“Good things come to those who wait.”

Potted Bulbs—The “Lasagna Pot”

Suggestions For Types Of Bulbs To Use

Perfect Timing…Or Not

The Process

The Pot

Polyester Fiberfill

Potting Soil

Headings

Down To Earth Garden Center, and Planting a Miniature Garden

The Newest Project

Fairy Gardens

Tropicals For a Miniature Garden

Little Evergreens For the Miniature Garden

Picea and Thuja

A Holly Called ‘Jersey Jewel’

The Cold Facts

Other Variables

In Unusually Cold Conditions

Hardiness Zones

The Weather Report

Cold Frames

Here’s A Bright Idea

Keeping Their Cool

Headings

Tips For Planting a Wire Hanging Basket

A Few Preliminaries

Can I Reuse Old Potting Soil In the New Hanging Basket?

Refresh/Reuse

Line the Liner

A Simple Trick

Other Options

Where To Place the Hanging Basket

Sun Or Shade?

Choosing Plants For Your Hanging Basket

Consider These Color Combinations:

Headings

How To Grow a Potted Tomato

Tomatoes

Basil

Caterpillars, Anyone?

Big Pots

Peppers

**Potted Peppers for Growing—in the Winter?**

***Picea* and *Thuja***