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Tip #3: Caring for Your Potted Peppers

 

Direct Sunlight and Temperature

Give your potted peppers as much direct sunlight as possible. With days growing shorter, they’ll need every minute of strong sunlight to grow and to maintain the foliage they have. Indoor sun is much weaker than outdoor sun because glass reflects and absorbs much of the intensity of the light. Also, light comes from only one direction—through the window—in most homes, so plants can’t benefit from light coming from other angles or bouncing off clouds.

When nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 55°F, bring your plants indoors. For plants that aren’t as robust as you’d like them to be, keep them above 65°. The next morning, after the sun raises the air temperature, move the plants outside until the temperature drops again. Setting an alarm will remind you to bring the plants indoors.

Direct sunlight provides the energy that drives photosynthesis. The more sun the plant gets, the more glucose it can make. Glucose fuels all cellular activities, including root and foliage growth and flower and fruit formation.

For ease of transport, I keep all potted peppers in large plastic bins. On a sunny morning, the bins are pushed out into the enclosed porch, where they bask in the sunshine and warmth. When the temperature drops below 55°, they come back indoors for the night. Avoid keeping them near heat registers, where the air is very dry.

At this time of the year (mid-October) in zone 7b, our average nighttime temperatures are around 50F, but that’s just an average. This week, the weather forecast is calling for temperatures 10+ degrees lower than that, so I’ll bring in all the basil, peppers, and other tropical plants that like warmer conditions.

Artificial Light

Adding supplemental light can make the difference between the plants thriving… and maybe not doing so well. The more light the plants get, the healthier they’ll be.

So, if you don’t have a protected outdoor space for the plants in the daytime and rely only on light coming through windows, you might need to supplement natural light with artificial light. A few grow bulbs (high wattages) or 2 shop lights (my preferred option) can work pretty well.

Place the plants very close to the source of light, but not so close that they can feel the warmth. Under 4′ long shop lights, each fitted with 2 “daylight” LED or fluorescent tubes, plants should be within a few inches of the tubes. Keep the lights on for 18 hours per day if they’re the main source of light.

Natural sunlight is stronger than most sources of artificial light. But artificial light is a must in long stretches of cloudy weather. It’s also helpful where daylength is very short for gardeners in the far north (northern hemisphere). What the lights can’t provide in intensity, they can make up for in duration. That explains the 18 hours.

You might have noticed my repeated emphasis on providing strong light for your potted peppers. In all the years I’ve grown peppers indoors and from customers’ comments, lack of adequate light is the #1 reason for failing with any sun-loving plant.

 

Water for Potted Peppers

 

 

Potted peppers should be kept lightly moist, never wet. Because they’re growing in fairly large pots, the soil in the lower 3/4 of the pot might have enough moisture even though the surface feels dry. Stick your finger 2″ into the soil; if there’s any dampness, don’t water yet.

When you’ve grown potted plants for a while, you’ll recognize by the weight of the pot whether or not it needs water.

If the plant is not wilting and skies are cloudy, delay watering. I prefer to water most plants on sunny mornings and when the forecast calls for a few days of sunny weather. In bright conditions, plants photosynthesize, transpire, and respire at an accelerated rate. Consequently, they use that water faster, so it’s less likely to damage roots. Never let excess water collect around the bottom of the pot, in a saucer or a bin; remove it within 15 minutes.

Water fully rooted plants thoroughly, until it begins to drain through the holes. If water rushes through the soil and exits immediately through the drainage holes, there’s probably an air gap between the pot and the outside of the root ball. Firm the soil or use a chop stick or a wooden dowel to force soil into the gap.

In cool weather, I use lukewarm water—about 85°F—to avoid shocking the plants. Because I keep my house cooler at night (58-60°), peppers, basil, and other tropicals enjoy lightly warmed water.

 

Fertilizer

 

 

Roots of plants growing in the garden can explore quite a distance from the stem for the nutrients they need. In a pot, however, roots are restricted to what’s available in the potting soil. Therefore, we need to regularly provide small amounts of nutrients as growth warrants.

When my plants continue producing a few peppers during winter months, I give them diluted concentrations of fertilizer, maybe 1/4 or 1/2 strength every 4-6 weeks. Less fertilizer is better than too much. So, if you’re in doubt, don’t fertilize. Use formulations with relatively small numbers, such as 5-10-5 or 14-14-14.

An oversupply of nutrient salts in the soil draws water out of the roots, causing a condition frequently referred to as “burning the roots”. Overfertilized plants soon wilt and most die.

Plants that look healthy but are not flowering probably do not need fertilizer. They might simply be in a state of semi-dormancy from late December through February, when not much growth occurs other than maintenance of plant tissues.

 

 

If plants stop growing leaves or turn pale green, they might need nutrients. Nitrogen is a macronutrient, needed in large amounts compared to other nutrients. Nitrogen helps the plant grow new foliage. When plants are young, use products with higher nitrogen levels. Once they approach the flowering stage, use less N and more phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). All fertilizer labels include 3 numbers, such as 21-8-14, representing nitrogen—phosphorus—potassium, always in that order.

There are thousands of molecular activities going on inside plant cells, and each nutrient plays an important part in many of them. Plants need only 16-20 elements, so skip the products that advertise they contain half the periodic table.

Avoid fertilizing plants if the soil is very dry. Water, and then fertilize a day or two later. Some nutrients in a fertilizer solution can be absorbed when sprayed on the foliage.

Timed Release Fertilizer

Another option is to add timed release fertilizer when potting up the plants. Some products last 4 months while others last 6-8 months. Apply an amount described on the container as a moderate rate. I add them about an inch below the soil surface so they won’t spill out, wash away, or release nutrients faster in the hot sun.

Nutrients inside the little prills release faster in temperatures above 70°, so you might need to reapply or use a different fertilizer before those 4 or 6 months are up.

During the main growing season, in summer, I usually use timed release fertilizer in smaller amounts and supplement with a liquid organic product.

“Should I use organic fertilizer?”

For greens and vegetables in containers and for those growing in my gardens, I use organic products most of the time. Fish emulsion, SeaPlus, compost, aged cow manure, earthworm castings, the Espoma brand of fertilizers, and others provide nutrients and help sustain the plants and populations of microbes.

Living microbes consume and break down organic matter in the soil, releasing simpler nutrients when they die. This natural process happens all the time in all healthy soils.

Some gardeners prefer the chemical (or synthetic) fertilizer products. In my opinion, using them does not make produce toxic since organics and synthetics break down to similar compounds. The plant reconfigures those nutrients into useful substances needed for normal growth.

Organics, however, add microbes, increase crop yields, and provide some protection from harmful microorganisms. They improve the quality of the soil for long-term production. Organic fertilizers have low numbers on the package, such as 3-5-4 or 5-1-1, but they release nutrients over a longer period of time.

Regular use of chemical fertilizers harms populations of microbes and earthworms. Incidentally, since microbes aren’t working in cold soil, I use synthetic fertilizer once or twice in cold weather. This maintains vigor for the hardy greens growing through the winter in outdoor gardens.

 

 

Tip #4: Pollinating Your Potted Peppers

 

 

 

In the cold months, you might occasionally see honey bees collecting nectar and pollen from winter bloomers outside. But their visits are limited to mild winter days and the pollinators can’t be counted upon to pollinate your peppers. So, how can we get the flowers pollinated?

Plants in the Solanaceae family, including peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants, have “complete” flowers. Each flower contains both male and female reproductive parts. In other words, the flowers are self-pollinating in the right conditions. All we need to do is to loosen the pollen grains from the anthers and get them to land on the receptive stigma in the same flower.

Easily done. No, you don’t need a paintbrush to transfer pollen from one flower to another. When the flower is fully open, simply tickle or tap the flower. I use the tip of a finger to gently rub the flower parts extending outside the petals. That vibration is sufficient to move dry pollen grains to the stigma. In these photos, I’m pollinating a pepper (above) and a tomato (right).

For plants still outside in the garden, wait for the dew to dry. Pollinate flowers that opened that morning. Older flowers won’t successfully pollinate.

 

 

Tip #5: Fruits from Your Potted Peppers

 

A few days to a week after pollinating the flower, you’ll seed a tiny green fruit beginning to grow. Success!!

The fruit is ready for harvest once it has reached its mature size. That could be 2″ long for a ‘Lunchbox’ pepper or 5″ for one of the larger bells. A mature fruit tastes sweeter than an immature fruit, but they’re both edible.

Wait another 2-3 weeks, and the fruit will change color. Red, orange, and yellow ripe peppers have quite a bit more vitamin C and beneficial antioxidants than the green ones.

Use pruners to harvest the peppers. Snapping the fruit sometimes results in part of the branch going with it.

 

No New Fruits?

A potted pepper with a few or several ripe (colorful) peppers seems to stop growing. There might not be any new foliage or flowers visible on the plant.

A plant’s goal in life is to make seeds for the next generation. So, the plant concentrates all its resources into maximizing seed viability. Growing new flowers would divide those resources, so, instead, the plant stops blooming. The products of photosynthesis are sent to the maturing fruits with their young seeds inside.

A week or two after those ripe fruits are harvested, you’ll once again see flower buds. If it’s near the middle of winter, though, the plants might not flower again until the days begin to substantially lengthen, around late winter. Pollinating the flowers in early spring guarantees fruiting before the potted peppers are returned, once again, to the summer garden.

 

 

 

Headings

Page 1: Autumn Has Arrived (Have You Ever Considered Growing Potted Peppers?, Early Fruits Next Summer), Tip #1: Start with Healthy Transplants, Tip #2: Transplanting Potted Peppers (The Pots, The Potting Soil, The Process, The First Watering, Varieties of Potted Peppers I’m Growing This Year)

Page 2: Tip #3: Caring for Your Potted Peppers (Direct Sunlight and Temperature, Artificial Light, Water for Potted Peppers, Fertilizer, Timed Release Fertilizer, “Should I use organic fertilizer?”), Tip #4: Pollinating Your Potted Peppers, Tip #5: Fruits from Your Potted Peppers (No New Fruits?)

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